Sound deadening and insulation (again)

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Baydreams, Jun 2, 2012.

  1. Hello folks, I bought some of these bitumen sound deadening pads for inside the door panels
    http://www.newtoncomm.co.uk/cars/vw-camper-van/model-131/panels/24-products-24/
    But I also want to put some of that Thermawrap stuff (the shiny stuff you buy from any DIY store, made usually for lofts) inside the door panels too. What would you do?:

    1. Fit the bitumen pads first and then the Thermawrap stuff on top of it (but wouldn't that stop the bitumen pads from doing their job, absorbing sound?). Or:
    2. Fit the Thermawrap stuff first then stick the bitumen pads to it (but wouldn't the weight of the bitumen pads risk making the Thermawrap sag over time and come away from the panels). Or:
    3. Fit the bitumen pads first, then fit the Thermawrap around it, by cutting a hole, so that the bitumen pads don't end up being covered by the Thermawrap. Or:
    4. Any other ideas?

    Cheers.
     
  2. the pads have to fit to the inside of the door skins
    you need to be careful with insunlation in the cab doors as water will run down the glass into the door
     
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  4. The Thermawrap stuff does a bit of sound insulation too, just not as good as the bitumen pads. I would put the pads on first, then the Thermawrap but not done it myself yet. As for the bitumen pads, they are expensive bits of tar. I looked at the roof felt stuff in Wickes the other day, looks similar but didn't fancy sleeping with that lovely smell of roadworks in the bus...

    Anyone found any alternatives to the 'pull your pants down' dynamat stuff?
     
  5. pads in centre of panel, followed by thermawrap.

    following extensive (and dull) research and asking some bod who know about acoustic type stuff the recommendation is to cover only 25%-40% of the panel area with sound deadening. if a company suggests you need more it's either a) rubbish stuff , or b) they're trying to sell you more than you need.

    remember it also adds weight (obviously), i cut mine into strips for the smaller panels (behind seats) and has worked a treat! :D
     
  6. you dont get any bitumen smell at all. its a direct replacement for factory fitted sound pads
    its more to stop panel vibration than for competition stereo noise, it will stop the drumming noise from large surface area panels. if you want to stop as much engine / transmission / road noise as possible then you will need the thicker stuff
     
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  8. Stick the pads on first. They stop the panels resonating.
     
  9. i ve just done my convertible beetle £5 for a large pad cut it to shape and size use a hir dryer to heat and shape owen nw

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    S1mon likes this.
  10. If you want to stop engine/exhaust noise, do you have to cover the whole rear floor area, under seat and wheel arches? Anyone got any install pics?
     
  11. i stuck some of the lino flooring i done the back of the camper on the inner wheel arches looks good and will help with keeping road noise down owen nw
     
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  13. just finished deadening the cargo floor.
    [​IMG]

    obviously i used full sheets of silent coat over the engine bay and wheel arches. i'll then put the closed cell foam over it (as you can see on the opp slider panel.
    hope this helps?:)
     
  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Wow - you've done your homework Erm - Which I kinda knew that from following the threads - but you are now officially the TLB resident expert. 8)
     
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  16. I can see the link for Silent Coat, but what closed cell foam did you use?

    Is the purpose of the foam just to insulate? If I just want to remove engine (twin 40's) noise, can I just cover the whole engine cover and under seat with the silent coat?
     
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  18. don't think i've explained use of sound deadening very well so here goes;

    sound deadening (bitumen, silent coat etc) is to stop a panel resonating.
    take a biscuit tin lid for example. if you tap it, it will 'ping'. if you apply some sound deadener to the centre of the underside of the lid and tap it it will be a dull 'thud' (ish). you've added mass to the lid and therefore changed its resonance/vibration.
    you don't need to cover the whole lid in order to do this. that's just wasteful and will make no difference to the deadening.
    my research showed differences of expert opinion, but all agree between 25%-40% of the panel needs to be deadened for efficiency.
    some manufacturers i've looked into say cover 100%. i wonder why? they're making money out if and/or saying their product isn't very good.

    closed cell foam (CCF) is used to cover whole panels OVER the deadener. and MLV can go over that but i would say only on horizontal surfaces, what with the whole gravity thing.

    is that better, or more confusing??? in my head things get weird very quickly. ???

    ooh, and don't forget to roller your sound deadener to ensure maximum contact with the panel, otherwise it won't work.
    :)
     
    bluerustybucket and paradox like this.

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