Hi all, I just brought a can of pastel white rustoleum. iv been messing around spraying and brush painting a few parts and some scrap metal just to get a feel for it. I mixed approx. 40% white spirit and spayed a few parts with 2 coats. very glossy smooth finish and really happy with the results. The only problem is after 3 days it is still not fully dry. It has a skin on it bit still wet underneath. I then took the leftover from the spray gun and brushed painted some parts. only put one coat on. doesn't look as good as the sprayed parts but you would never guess it wash brush painted. Completely flat smooth finish. its dryer than the stuff I sprayed but still not 100%. main questions I have 1) should I mix with white spirite or acetone? iv read acetone will make it dry fast but can cause wrinkles or take away the gloss finish after a few months. it can also react with other paints. iv also read lots of good things about acetone. 2) are there any safe hardeners I can use? iv read that they are all pretty nasty unless you have all the correct safety gear. would it be safe to brush paint with a hardener? 3) best mixes for spraying and best mixes for brush painting? 4) can I preheat the paint or maybe the part after painting to help it dry? 5) pre painting prep (I used some 600 grit degreased with white spirit then 800 grit degreased left to dry for 10 mins then painted) 6) after painting does any one add a lacquer to it? any wet sanding or polishing I should be doing? I would rather take the guess work out of it so if anyone has some good advice please can share it.
I've always rolled it on with small gloss roller, mixed with around 20% white spirit. Goes on well, takes around a week at least before it's set enough for a rub down and next coat. Flat each later back, so it's smooth before the next one . No need for lacquer. The T25 crew use it widely- have a squint at club80-90 website there is a massive thread on there about how best to approach it.
Brushed on, always allow at least a week, but really a fortnight before it hardens up. No need to do anything else, once set it is shiny and rock hard.
Use less thinners Being an enamel it will take a fair while to dry No need to laquer once it's fully painted and fully cured best wait a few months Then you can flat it with 2000 grade wet and dry them polish with cutting compound using a da polisher Once you have had some practice and got the knack you can brush paint enamel and nobody would be able to tell it's not sprayed
I once painted a roofrack with the similar Hammerite paint. A week later I pressure washed it. Hundreds of sticky white paint flakes went flying some attached themselves to neighbours cars..... I found some hiding on the pop top a year later.
Rustoleum is a quality paint which when thinned a little, about 10% with white sprit (not acetone) applies easily using a small roller and paint tray or brushed on in those difficult places. I get a pack of paint rollers and trays from Homebase, cheap. As said, it takes time to fully dry before another coat but as it dries it smooths out to a lovely finish. As said, go on to the club8090 forum for T25's where they are experts and there's plenty of useful posts on there with pics. Done my son's whole T25 twice now in 5 years including the grp hightop. Also did my t2 underbody, wheel arches, tinware, heat exchangers, engine bay, and cab floor all with Rustoleum Combicolour with brush and rollers.
I'd say 40% thinners is far too much. As I recall, Rusto recommend 15-20% white spirit. With too much thinning, it'll take an eternity to go off. Even unthinned, I've found Rusto takes about a week to harden. After a few weeks/months, it's rock solid. Great paint!
Thanks for the info. that part looks very good. I tried with less thinners but it wouldn't spray I have one of those low pressure high volume spray guns maybe that's why I had to thin it quite a lot. also I have the same metz bottle opener that a see in the background. very 90's
I've had that bottle opener since 96/97 I think I had to drink 8 bottles to get the free key ring It's on my camper keys nowadays and has probably opened more tins of paint than drinks bottles in recent years
sorry not liking acetone, I worked in the chemical industry years ago and we treated acetone with great caution as it is very volatile, highly flammable and toxic to breathe and defatted the skin. definitely not to be used in an enclosed space like a garage without full ventilation.
That's fair enough but it doesn't mean it's not suitable to use with rustoleum. White spirit is also volatile and will remove the grease from your skin Plenty of women use acetone close to the skin in an enclosed environment on a weekly basis when they remove nail polish As with all chemicals caution, common sense and appropriate Ppe should be used. It's not as scary stuff as trichloroethane,xylene etc
Acetone is one of the least toxic of the many organic solvents used in the work place. Its toxicity is low for both acute and chronic exposures. However, prolonged inhalation of high concentrations of acetone vapor causes irritation of the respiratory tract, headache, loss of memory, and in extreme cases, unconsciousness. Other symptoms of acetone intoxication include dizziness, nausea, or drowsiness. Continued skin contact may produce a mild form of dermatitis. Control Vapor Concentrations: Acetone vapor in work areas should be maintained at or below the Threshold Limit Value of 750 PPM (averaged during an 8-hour workday), with a maximum Short Term Exposure Limit (defined as 15 minutes) no higher than 1000 PPM. For most operations, vapor can be kept at safe levels by enclosing the operation, by ventilating, or both. Opening windows or doors is often adequate for most small uses. Local exhaust may be needed with larger operations in order to capture the vapors at the source and keep them out of the breathing zone. Wear PPE: Employees engaged in routine handling of acetone should wear milled butyl rubber gloves and rubber aprons for protection against skin contact. Chemical goggles should be worn where necessary. When complete face protection is necessary, a face shield should be worn. Fire Prevention: Acetone is a serious fire hazard and can ignite with only a 2.6% concentration in the air. Water solutions of acetone are also highly flammable; a solution of 10 percent acetone in water has a flash point of about 80 F (27C). All sources of ignition, including spark-producing mechanisms or operations should be eliminated in areas where acetone is stored, handled, or used. Vapor proof electrical systems should also be installed (Class 1 - Division 1). Fire extinguishers for acetone fires include foam, carbon dioxide, and dry chemical. Water used on an acetone fire should be in the form of a spray or fog in order to prevent spreading the fire. First Aid: If a person has inhaled small amounts of acetone vapor and exhibits any of the symptoms of acetone intoxication, they should be moved to fresh air and the effects will often disappear in a few hours. If large amounts have been inhaled, the person should be moved to fresh air and medical assistance immediately summoned. If breathing has stopped or respiration is weak; artificial respiration should be given. If splashed in the eyes, the eyes should be irrigated immediately with large quantities of running water for at least 15 minutes. An evaluation by a physician as soon as possible is recommended. Skin contaminated with acetone should be washed with soap and water, and any contaminated clothing removed.
Have you used Acetone with rusto paint? did you find it made much of a difference compared to white spirit? I really want to paint the roof of my bus. its kept on the drive in the open so I really need to speed up the curing time of the paint before I can attempt this. I will use rollers and brushes as I cant spray outdoors.
I found it skinned well enough (with white spirit) to resist heavy rain after around 24 hours. It resisted light drizzle after an hour or so. As temps drop though you will run into other issues, such how long it takes to dry after you prep it and wash it down. Buy one of these and get on with it: http://www.argos.co.uk/product/2952091
No I'd have thought a paint for GRP would have been the best for that. try Toplac or another marine paint
