Puddle of fuel

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Aps, Jan 19, 2019.

  1. Aps


    Thanks for the heads up tookey, I am going to look in to that option.

    A quick update as to what I have been up to...

    I haven't found the source of my puddle of fuel probably because the bus has been starting right on the button ever since but having just seen tookeys findings I shall change the manifold boots because they do appear to be of a certain age and it certainly wont do any harm.

    I have replaced the pancake filter with a standard paper element air box and the 009 dizzy with a SVDA jobbie and the difference is fantastic. I have only been on a short run but the flat spot is gone and it feels like there is a tad more grunt which enables the old girl to get from 0-40 in a reasonable time ( I have now binned the sun dial and am using an egg timer to measure this).

    All in all everything is moving in the right direction, just an original 34/3 to find so I can replace the 30/31 that is on at the moment.
    Meltman, paradox, Valveandy and 4 others like this.
  2. Hi Aps if one or both of those boots have gone it won't only leak but also suck in more air into the inlet manifold. Once I'd replace the damage one on mine it not only stopped the leak, but improved the running and fuel consumption
    Aps likes this.
  3. Aps


    Thanks tookey, I did spray wd40 around the boots but didn't notice any difference in engine revs. Its worth changing them for the sake of a few quid so they are on the to do list
  4. Petrol can seep out of a split thats too small to let in a lot of air when there is a vacuum sucking the split closed as well.
    Replace the boots. When you look in at them you can only see the cool side, the invisible underside is where the splits often start with the heat from the exhaust risers, and the application of Sod's law that ensures the top is 100% perfect and the back is completely rotten.
    Aps likes this.
  5. Aps


    That Sod has a lot to answer for. I had a similar scenario today, not started for a while and I didn't quite catch it on the first attempt and so a little cranking was needed and hey presto the fuel leak returned which did appear to be coming from around the back of the boot. Thank you for the great explanation of what could be happening, every day is a school day with these busses and now I have learn how to whip the manifold off. Good job I enjoy doing this stuff.
  6. Hi, hope that sorts it out , how easy was it to change the manifold boots, a brief explanation would be most useful.
    Aps likes this.
  7. Aps


    I have not done it yet but hopefully it wont be too tricky, just need to figure out what consumables I will need... new boots, carb gasket and manifold gaskets, anything else? I will be doing a resto thread so I will put an expanation in there.
    Valveandy likes this.
  8. Changing the manifold boots is either fairly simple or difficult...

    Sometimes the manifold ends unbolt from the cylinder heads, the boots slip off and on again and job done.

    Otherwise ...you may find you need to unbolt the carburettor from the engine block, and lift it up to free off the manifold ends off the head studs.
    That means disconnecting the heat risers.
    Then you find the alternator gets in the way and you have to lift the fan shroud. Which means you have to take off the thermostat to be able to lift the shroud ..
    At this point it becomes easier to stop and take the engine out ...
    Valveandy likes this.

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