Puddle of fuel

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Aps, Jan 19, 2019.

  1. Aps


    This is where the area starts going grey. The carb is a new Solex 30/31, filter is a pancake and I have discovered that the T piece for the two tank breathers has broken. I was giving it one gentle pump to set the choke but not give it a squirt but yesterday when the temperature was just below zero this method didn't work
  2. Aps


    Not so concerned about the mayo but it does gather quickly in the oil filler cap and its coming out of the breather and also there was a dribble in the left hand rocker cover
  3. I wouldn't worry about the mayo at the moment, its been explained why you have that. You should focus on the fuel issues, you don't want to risk a fire.

    I am curious about the carb you have which sounds like one for a Beetle, maybe I am wrong, and is it a reproduction or a genuine rebuilt solex? I assume your engine is a 1600 twin port.

    Someone will come on here and discuss your pancake filter which is not suitable.
  4. and would you give details of the distributor you have and if it has a vacuum can, you said it was points. perhaps you would take some pics of the engine and post them up here to get more interest and help.
    Dub and Dubber likes this.
  5. A puddle on the floor would most likely be split hose or pump diaphragm
    Aps likes this.
  6. Aps


    The dizzy is a Boch 009 so no can and its running points. The carb is a new Solex 30/31 which I have read will run a bit lean and needs to be rejetted. I am going to have to remove the carb to see if this has been done. An original 34/3 is on my to do list. I did mention some where that the engine is a 1600 single port but it is actually a twin port. I will get a picture of the engine tomorrow

    The sparkplugs are from right to left cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4. 1 looks about right, 2 appears rich, 3 slightly lean and 4 very lean.
  7. Aps


    The hoses are looking pretty new and are dry so I shall have a look at the pump diaphragm, thanks
  8. My bug get used very rarely and is going through an accelerator pump diaphragm every 12-18 months due to ethanol in fuel. First one lasted 30 years in my dads care. They are brittle and torn when replaced. On my third now. It will start but will bog down when the gas is applied. Rebuild kits are cheap but if the crab is new you have to ask yourself how long has it been sat on a shelf before being fitted.
    Aps likes this.
  9. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    You’ve got a combination of the wrong carb and wrong dizzy.
    Personally I’d replace both.
    Aps, snotty and mgbman like this.
  10. Do you have a pic of the distributor and air filter.
  11. Run the engine and if its not too clattery you may be able to hear air leaks as a harsh hissing at idle .. or use a bit of hose, hold it to your ear amd poke the other emd round the carburettor and manifold.

    That carburettor is not doing you a favour when it comes to getting the correct mixture to the cylinders - too lean due to the carburettor originally being for a smaller engine, and it may end up with things overheating.

    The 3/4 side may well also have a leak - the rubber boot or the gasket between the cylinder head and the manifold may not be sealing.
    Aps likes this.
  12. Aps


    I do agree and I am on the lookout for the right combo, in the meantime this set up is working adequately at the moment
  13. Aps


  14. Aps


    Today, the bus started very easily and I went round with wd40 and there appears to be no leaks. I tweaked the carb, went for a drive, everything seems to be good again. I wonder if poor starting technique lead to massive flooding.
  15. That may be. Until the next time it doesn't start. As advised by others, your engine is set up wrong, wrong carb, wrong distributor, wrong air filter and the plugs are past their best.

    The first 3 items you could do over time. Plugs need changing now. Is the engine battery old and worn out, I would get a new one and charge it up to maximum. Attend to the distributor points, clean and correct gap. Put new fuel in the tank, old fuel makes poor starting. Renew all fuel lines and breathers, new fuel filter under the tank outlet. Lots to do, but you will need to do them at some stage if you want safety and reliability.

    The wiring connections at the starter solenoid get corroded easily and cleaning them up all helps. As does the battery connectors and earth to body. Poor spark and weak spark may be a part cause of your erratic starting.

    Remember we are in winter and most engine non starts in winter are due to battery issues.
  16. Aps


    I appreciate that the set up is wrong and I will be changing it as and when I find the bits ( already got a stock air cleaner) and plugs are on the way.

    The battery is less than 12 months old and was fine even with the considerable amount of cranking it did that morning, I did put it on charge after though. I have checked the valve clearances and adjusted one of them, checked and adjusted the points twice and am just waiting for a new timing light to come so I can check that.

    Fuel is fresh so that is out of the equation, and all the lines that I can see appear new, feel soft not brittle, no splits on the ends and are dry. I had a look through the paint lid and from what I can see the filler neck is good. I have a T piece for the tank breathers on order as that is shot.

    I am thinking that the reason it struggled to start was a combination of the very cold morning taking the edge off the battery and me flooding it. All this doesn't tell me how or where the fuel came from but I think the accelerator pump is the next thing to look at.
  17. Where are you fella?
  18. Aps


    Near Ilkeston, Derbyshire
  19. I had a similar problem with a fuel leak on mine, I hadn't noticed that until one day I had trouble starting like you did. I noticed fuel dripping onto the tin ware couldn't see where it was coming from at first but in the end found it, it was one of the twin port manifold boots. Their rubber it had split on it's under side, the continuous turning the engine over had put enough fuel into the inlet manifold to highlight it , didn't won't that dripping onto a hot engine or manifold
    Aps and mikedjames like this.
  20. An electrical spark or a leak of hot exhaust gas / flame will light petrol vapour if the mixture is right.. not too rich or too lean..
    Petrol needs a temperature above 250 degrees C - sparks, exhaust pipes nearer heads but certainly not the engine block.
    Aps likes this.

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