powerspark ingnition

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by bluething, Jul 10, 2017.

  1. I spent Saturday messing with the double cab and fitted a new fuel pump and electronic ignition.
    The jury is still out on the fuel pump as the last one I had lasted about a week before the pin fell out the bottom of it. I did 200miles yesterday on the new pump and it's not leaking so fingers crossed.

    The electronic ignition is my bigger problem though. I decided to go with the full kit from Powerspark.
    The dizzy isn't actually that bad in terms of quality. swapping it over was simple. I set the timing to 7.5 degrees and then checked it at max and the max advance was 28/29 degrees.

    took it for a spin and instantly felt the difference. I think this was because my old dizzy is a bit worn out. anyways. coming back to the house I noticed a bit of a missfire. nothing major but there all the same.
    backed on to the drive and switched it off. about 20 mins later I went out again and tried to start it up and it just cranked. not even a splutter or fart.

    I opened up the engine bay and had a check of everything. all leads attached and correct. The only thing i did notice was that the fan housing was pretty hot. by hot I mean you couldn't rest your forearm on it for more than a couple of seconds. do these modules break down in hot temps?? it's a bit worrying considering I only drove about a mile (if that)

    I put my old dizzy back on and it started up on the first turn without a struggle. I've spoken to powerspark and they are going to take it back and test it for me. just wondering if anyone's had the same issues

    Cheers :)
     
    1973daisey likes this.
  2. Did you swap the dizzy cap and rotor arm for decent ones ?
     
    bluething likes this.
  3. yup, got beru ones fitted. tried the arm and cap that came with the kit as well as my original ones and they both work on points but not on electronic dizzy
     
    Betsy73 likes this.
  4. looks like it maybe the module then !
     
    bluething likes this.
  5. If the engine's getting that hot, might want to check your ignition timing again.
     
  6. it's bang on... only other thing I imagine would make it hot is it running lean but it doesnt seem to be looking at the colour of the burn
     
    snotty likes this.
  7. Odd :confused:
     
  8. maybe I just need to man up a bit and it wasn't that hot... it was the inside of my wrist dunno.
    I'm bunging it all in the post back to them tomorrow :)
     
    snotty likes this.
  9. Yes modules can get hot and malfunction.


    But more likely it got hot then you flooded it. If you pumped the accelerator pedal om your hot engine rather than holding it flat to the floor and cranking for 20 seconds you may well have just flooded it.

    Check for spark next time it doesnt start.
    - use a spare plug as I suspect testing electronic modules for spark with an inch long spark can sometimes damage them...

    And then look for bad connections.

    It is still quite possible to guess a lean running engine is OK by plug colour..

    next time when it is idling take a metre of fuel hose , hold one end to your ear and listen around the intake manifold amd carburettor for the harsh hiss of an air leak. An idling carburettor makes a dull roar.
    If there are any braided rubber vacuum lines wiggle them because they crack too and leak while you are driving and not at idle....
     
    bluething likes this.
  10. yeah I agree but I was using a colourtune so I know it's not leaning out... no airleaks. it's really odd. It's on it's way back to them now so we'll see what they find. :)
     
  11. After 20 mins the heat will disperse and will be hot and I have this kit 30,000 in now on the dizzy there just up the road from me power spark !! I bet u left dizzy loose
     
    bluething and SeanOC like this.
  12. :D no, I did think that myself, it wouldn't have been completely out of character. They got it back today so we'll see what they reckon. sods law, it's running lovely on points at the moment :D
     
  13. POwerspark couldnt find anything wrong with it so as soon as I get it back then I'll fit it and see. one thing they did mention was to ignore the 7.5 degree timing and go with the 30 degree max advance at 3000rpm. can anyone confirm this?

    Cheers
    Dave
     
    SeanOC likes this.
  14. Time it to max out at 28 or 30 degrees. You'll likely find timing at idle ends up at about 10 degrees, which is fine.
     
  15. Cheers Snotty! is that with the vac attached?
     
  16. Vac off - you don't want any additional advance - and plugged at the carb end.
     
    Valveandy likes this.
  17. Cheers snotty!
     
  18. It's by far, the biggest pile of junk I've ever had the pleasure of putting on my van and I have just been very close to lobbing it down the road. Now back to points. Swapped back and normal service is resumed


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    SeanOC and paul2590 like this.
  19. Only ever fit pertronix, here endeth the lesson

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
     
  20. Am I correct in thinking the VW specific dizzy is manufactured in such away that the lobe on number 3 is ground so it aids in the cooling for number 3 ?
     

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