Hello, I've been having a bit of a battle tonight trying to change a brake light bulb in the rear of the bus... during the this I started having a good look at the top of the engine bay (mainly fuelled by the bus fire posts yesterday) and noticed some pipe work to me that looks like its piped incorrectly. The pictures below are started from above the battery and moving across the engine bay right to left. The t-connector carries on from one side, with an open part simply going to air.. I follow the pipe work across and then there is a another straight connector... second picture. The final picture is off my carb... I am sure the pipework should be the other way around with a feed going to the carb... is that right? Any thoughts most welcome! Thanks upfront for any advice
First pic. Pipe should go into standard air filter, you should be able to plumb it into new filter, but I have never done it. Maybe someone else on here has.
On mine (a '75) the 2 metal pipes in 1 & 2 (coming down from each fresh air vent) are connected by 2 more pieces , which themselves are joined by the T piece. The 3rd leg of the T goes to the (stock) air filter. I don't think the actual routing matters, as long as the 2 metal pipes ultimately vent into the top of the carb. If not, you will be venting flamable petrol fumes into your engim bay. P.
the hard metal line spanning the roof of the engine bay is a breather pipe that comes from the fuel tank... the bits you can see are at the bottom of the diagram....the t piece should loop into the air filter as PT2 pointed out...if you have a non stock filter, you could install a small hose barb in the top of the filter (although space looks tight in your pic) there are usually two lines from the carb...ones provides vacuum signal to the vacuum advance on the dizzy, the other should run up to a small vac operated valve in the stock air filter...it can be blocked off without any issues.... if it were my bus, I'd be converting it back to stock air filter and preheat set up as they run much better this way.....all the parts are available secondhand for arounf £40 assuming the thermostat and associated flaps etc. are present...if not, rig up a means of getting some warm air up to the carb...especially in Winter....folk who bin the preheat side of things often richen up the mixture to compenate for lack of heat to atomize the fuel properly, and wonder why they get 16mpg and their cylinders let go a few thousand miles afterwards....been there...done that
You don't appear to have any hose clips on you fuel pump hoses and you've got a plastic filter after the pump
@wizrod , @vanorak , @theBusmonkey I really appreciate these posts, thank you. My bay came with a type 1 engine in, but after struggling with insurances over the past few years, I was leaning towards that there should be a type4 engine in the bay... based on what they were saying it had been previously insured as.... I checked with the DVLA who backed up what I have as it stands is fully correct to the paperwork they have... I have put another post about missing engine bay covers, and from the responses in there I think this leans further towards the type 4 engine was originally in there. Still will fettle the pipes so the fuel fumes are not pouring in to the engine bay tomorrow... and will get something placed up to the carb. Again really appreciate this help - thank you
@Wonty - there's a vacuum pipe on the left side of your carb that needs to be connected to the distributor, or plugged. Also, your fuel lines don't appear to have any clips on (the one to the carb appears to have a cable tie holding it on)...
Yep, missed that...fuel filter on the pressure side of the pump not a good idea. Stick it under the van.
Oh my lord... never spotted that till zooming in to the picture.... the fuel lines are attached with fluffing tie wraps! Not happy... time for another cider I feel!
Just double checking is that the braided pipe going into thin air?.... Feel I may be taking a few more pics tomorrow!
the original set up had a small thermostat near the cylinders that open a pair of flaps to allow progressively cooler air into the fan shroud as the engine warmed up...initially the flaps are closed....(not 100% accurate but you get the idea..for the benefit of.any pedants reading) there was also a 'stove pipe' (basically a 90 degree elbow duct) that took hot air from no.2 cylinder and directed it into the air filter box....a piece of aluminium ducting bent to shape and routed up to your airfilter may help in winter, but how much, i wouldn't like to say...an alternative would be an IMDU.....essentially a 12v inlet manifold heater, powered from the ignition coil....worth doing in autumn sort out all your fuel related stuff first...it's an accident waiting to happen
Seems like a bit of a task tomorrow... Oddly I had a bad feeling about the fuel lines the other week and randomly bought a few metres of fuel line, clips, new filter... etc... So glad I did now
Yep, it's the ported vacuum line that normally drives the distributor vacuum advance. There you go! Post some other pics of your engine compartment. Also get under the van and check the fuel line from the tank.
can't see your dizzy in the pic...if it's a 009 just block all the small hoses coming from the carb (bolt in the end of some tight fitting pipe will suffice) and install a hose from the T piece to that spigot stickking out the bottom of your air filter housing...make sure it's drilled first...it may be a blank hole
Right @snotty I'll get some pics up tomorrow of the dizzy cap and surrounding area, and guess have a game off where's wally stuck the fuel pipes.... You would not believe how far I have driven this bus in this configuration! If ever any of you meet the misses... this is our little secret! With regards to the fuel line from the tank underneath is there a path it should be taking? Can see the engine coming out at this rate!
