oil change on type 4 engine

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by grub, Dec 16, 2012.

  1. Hi folks,

    just in the middle of an oil/filter change on my type 4 engine

    haven't done one on a type 4 engine for yrs (haven't had this bus long.

    Sound like a silly question but what exactly do I need to replace...

    Taken the oil drain plate thingy off the bottom with the 13mm nut, but there doesn't appear to be an oil strainer in here like there is on the type 1 engine and no gasket to change here?

    Is this round plate all that comes off the bottom of the sump, and is there a separate oil strainer I need to look at.

    Cheers
     
  2. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

    there is a round plate on the bottom held on by a 13mm? head nut it has a copper washer on it, inside there is a dome shape strainer above and below it is a large circular gasket to seal it when you renew,



    http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Oil-strainer-Type-4-1-7-021115175_act_shop.product_pID_85088_lang_EN_country_GB.htm?crumbStartPage=1
    http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Oil-change-gasket-set-T2-Type4-1-7-2-0-021198031B_act_shop.product_pID_130027_lang_EN_country_GB.htm?crumbStartPage=1
    http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Oil-filter-Type-2-4-1-7-2-0-021115351A_act_shop.product_pID_134131_lang_EN_country_GB.htm?crumbStartPage=1

    don't tighten it too much. if it isn't there it either hasn't been refitted or the p/o removed it or you have an aftermarket sump? the other oil filter is obvious.
     
  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Rather than taking that plate off, why not just use the drain plug? Don't over-tighten the plate when you put back or you could crack the block.
     
  4. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

    he says he already took the plate off zed,hence his query on the lack of strainer.
     
  5. all done, cheers guys -
    always think I tend to do bolts/nuts up a bit too tight tbh as I am paranoid about them coming undone -
    I have done the nut up reasonably tight using a standard 1/2 in socket wrench
    as i've already done the nut up, can't see the point in undoing it a bit now, but will not do it so tight next time (or shall i slacken it off a bit?)
     
  6. no, leave it as it... loosening it could cause it to vibrate undone :thumbsup:
     
  7. will do, cheers Paul
     
  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

     
  9. it's another one of those items that has a crush washer... nip it up until it flattens, then stop :thumbsup:
     
  10. Type 4 engine owners should be paranoid of overtightening that nut, too much and it will crack the block and that means a new engine.

    The owners manual says between 7 and 9 ft. lb, I go for between 7 and 8, in my opinion 9 is the absolute max. Once I have driven it a bit after the change, I then give it a tweak (engine cold) with the torque wrench again to compensate for any adjustment from the case expanding and contracting from heat, that nut is something you should check regularly with a torque wrench in any case.

    I use a Teng 3/8" sq drive torque wrench for this job, with a range of 3-18 ft. lb / 5-25NM. Just now noticed this is my "first" post since the site crashed.

    [​IMG]
     
  11.  
  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    There's a bodgy fix if you do crack the case though can't remember what it is. A search on VZi would turn it up. :)
     
  13. You can fit a longer bolt Steve... there's between another 5 to 8mm worth of thread in the hole.... but it is a rubbish get by!!
     
  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

     
  15. case is weld-able... but as a quick fix, it's ok :thumbsup:
     

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