Hi there, after a few weeks trying to get my bus mot ready any eventually getting it started , I reversed it off the drive only to struggle to select any forward gears easily , it was crunching trying to select reverse after that so I turned engine off and selected it then got it back on the drive , any advice or help would be much appreciated cheers Paul
Buy a technical manual - Haynes, T2 Service Manual or even Compleat Idiots Guide., visit http://www.ratwell.com If its a new clutch then the problem may simply be adjustment - I just had a new clutch fitted on my daily Peugeot as a 100000 mile present to it and I couldnt get it into gear because the clutch would not release fully the morning after it had been to the garage. But once driven for 50 miles it was biting smoothly and de-clutching properly. Reach high up on the left hand side on the gearbox in the dark space above everything in front of the engine firewall at the back and theres a great big wingnut up there on the end of the clutch lever on the gearbox. The clutch cable goes through the tube that runs just left of central below the suspension beam and then goes up the side of the gearbox to the clutch lever. It is probably easier to get at with the concertina tube from the heat exchanger out of the eay Check the gear change lever at the front of the bus is bolted down and in the right place. Also check your shift coupler bolt just in front of the rear suspension tube - if that is loose then that may also be causing gear change difficulty. Or it might be like our previous gearbox - it becomes replacement gearbox time fubar'd and has given up because the linkage was floppy and the gear lever adjustment was off and the empi shifter was worn out.
Under adjusted. if it crunches but you can get the odd gear, try about 6-8 complete turns. You won't get it right first time. If you press pedal with your hand, you'll feel a loose bit, Check Haynes for the exact figure but you want about an inch of travel before the slack is taken up. This will be pulling the lever on the gearbox a little. Molegrips clamped on the square bit of the clutch cable will stop cable turning with the nut.
Thanks all will be under it this weekend if the weather cheers up a bit lmao , I've got this far so far by trial and error and a lot of good advice from the guys on here cheers Paul
Hi there, I got under boris today decided to fit a new clutch cable , it was exactly the same tho when fitted still crunching into gears and not selecting gears , the old clutch cable was adjusted to the max the new one was too , I've had to put about 8 washers in front of the wing nut to be able to adjust it further , this does work nice now selecting gears great but what is causing this , is it a new clutch that's needed? Biting point does seem rather high on the peddle now , cheers Paul
If it's grabby too, look at the bowden tube shape and compare to the diagram in your Haynes. It should be S shaped. If it's straight, look at the end of the steel conduit. It should be attached to the torsion tube and may have lost an inch or two. Sorry I don't have a pic, perhaps someone else has? Bite point should be about 1/2 way up. The way to set it to feel for the loose play with your hand on pedal. Again, read your Haynes to set properly. If you don't have a Haynes, get one.
Sorry on my phone but this is what takes up the slack whs^^^^ http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/vw1973daisy/media/Mobile Uploads/image_zps664eb3d9.jpg.html
Hi zed , I looked at the tube that fits to the torsion tube ,it seems to have snapped in two where it goes through the clip ,can I get a new tube to replace this bit do you no ,someone on another forum is telling me you have to lengthen the cable has the clutch wears not tighten is this true ,if so it's not the clutch then got o be something to do with this broken tube ,cheers Paul
When you say snapped, do you mean the bit that sits in the clip/clamp on the side of the gearbox? that's part of the bowden tube, so you'll need to replace it anyway.
Easiest it to repair the one you have, you need a few inches of conduit the same size, a piece to sleeve the join and to then weld it to the bracket on the torsion tube. Good idea to replace the bowden tube as while you're at it, they're pretty cheap last time I looked.
Hi , no it's the conduit itself ,about four inches of conduit that comes out of the clamp that's on the rear torsion tube ? Cheers Paul
Hi zed , that was the same mend as I thought of lol , but I was on schofields and they sell the whole conduit for about£20 so I've ordered a new one along with another clutch cable just in case the last one on Saturday from gsf was the wrong one lol ,Bowden tube ,new clip to attach cable to peddle mechanism as this was just a bolt that some div had done , not sure of what it involves replacing the conduit but I suppose I will soon find out , thanks for your reply cheers Paul
£20 is scene tax, it's just steel tube! Some perspective - I just had 6 feet of 2mm chassis supplied and bent into shape locally for £19 inc VAT. Actually had 2x as much for £38, but you get the idea. A piece of, I think 10mm int dia, conduit should be less than a fiver really!
