Lottie, a 79 full restoration Part 1/2/3/4/5

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by martinvention, Jul 12, 2015.

  1. Monday 11 Feb, red letter day - flashed her up, drove out of garage reversed and drove home again. First own power trip for about a decade.
     
  2. You beat me by a day in getting the engine running!
     
  3. Hi James, I did cheat a bit as I had the engine running on the test bed many times since its rebuild. Took it for another trundle today having fitted all air filter vacuum lines. The manifold had a 12mm take off, great for the new brake servo, so I bought a 13x6x13mm T and have fitted behind dizzy, vacuum pipe to thermostatic valve in air box arrowed. Still not 100% on pipe fitting to valve but have fitted intake diaphragm line to brass stub and black plastic stub to manifold pipe. Need to check timing and carb idle bypass/mixture.
    Engine vacuum pipes.jpg

    Also decided to fit hardboard insulation retainer to the hatch:
    Hatch insulation.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2019
    Day and JamesLey like this.
  4. Fitted engine hatch and tailgate then glass and spent some time getting catches lined up and working well. Unfortunately my white/blue masking line does not match perfectly and will be sorted when all doors are fitted and warmer weather permits snagging work to the paint finish. Rear hatchs fitted.jpg

    This leads well into the next topic, cab door and window fitting. Pretty well covered by Fletcher Gillett in the Haynes restro book but some points to stress:
    1. New paint, sharp trim edges, spring clips and rubber thingies that need force to fit have to be done carefully.
    2. Locks, Glass, winder cable, scrapers, trim quarter-light frame and seals have to go in the right order, you do not want to do this a second time.
    3. Use lots of masking tape to protect paint and some grease where aluminium trim meets paint.
    4. There will be sweat, tears and blood the clips that retain the sliding glass guide in the upper frame are very sharp.
    5. Like a lion about to eat a horse walk around the issue carefully and plan ahead.
    The only part from the Fletcher book that did not work for me was the quarter-light fitting. The book says to fit the frame fully assembled, inserting the bottom of the vertical bar into the window slot from above. But even with the sliding glass loose in the door frame and pushed back there was not enough space to get the lug at the base of the bar into the door. Fortunately I tested before assembling the quarter-light and in the end inserted the bar from below then fitted the trimmed seals, glass and front alloy frame. This photo illustrates part of the problem, getting it all together using "soft" tools and minimal force:
    drivers quarter light.jpg
    All pulled together by a strap and a long screw and nut at the top, then replaced by short one. Finally with main glass adjusted and running true in frame, a final tweak: The metal clips securing the scrapers to the door frame are very difficult; they fit into obscured holes, need force and are hard to prise/press. I felt the outer clips had not gone home so made a tool to grab the ends and pull them home by twisting and levering against the door frame lip. This could only be deployed when the sliding window was fitted one fully up. The tool is a bit of 30x3mm bar with a tang an one end made with a couple of saw cuts, then wrapped with masking tape, and sure enough most of my clips were not home, but soon pulled into place: Scraper fitting tool.jpg
    OK this is Gobbledy Gook to many but I hope it may be found by others before they attack this particular task and that to them it will make sense.
    Job done: Drivers cab window.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2019
    Day, Valveandy, Lazy Andy and 2 others like this.
  5. All useful points fella! I've got these to do at some point shortly.
     
  6. So what is different from the one above? engine tuning.jpg

    Yes, a lot of bits removed in fact carb, dizzy, alt and pedestal plus inlet manifolds have been removed and refitted as I struggle to find cause of poor idle. James Lay has started a good thread and I will tag on my woes:
    T1 engine won’t idle. Help!’
     
  7. So one of the good things about a complete restoration is that when one bit is not going well you can walk away and do something else. So I have left the engine idle issue and cracked on with the NS cab door. This side went well thanks to experience gained on the other and I did a bit of cutting on the paint and applied some wax. NS Cab door fitted.jpg
    So now I have backtracked a bit to the troublesome sliding door. One of the issues was that the inside locking catch on the handle mechanism would not 'flick' nicely up and down. The inside handle also seemed a bit limp. It is not designed to be opened up as the connecting pins between each side of the casing are peened over like rivets. With some careful drilling all revealed including two springs that have got away from their designed confines. Sliding door handle.jpg
    After cleaning, re-greasing, reassembly and a few touches with the welder all is good. Next task sloppy link to middle roller and some tweaks to spring/catches.
     
  8. Some more supplies from Martrim so I have set up a sweat shop in my cider shed and hope to have the cab seats re-upholstered soon:
    Upholstery shop.jpg

    Seats bought for a very reasonable price from nice man in Uxbridge are I think very late bay/early T25 and metal and most padding in good condition, though I will add a bit of extra foam sheet to the backs.
    Seat base metalwork.jpg

    Coverings were brown tweed, sticky a bit torn and some ciggie burns. New fronts will be in 2 tone vinyl with backing scrim cloth. In slightly unknown territory and not possessing a walking foot sewing machine I am working very carefully to get best results. Wish me luck!!
     
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