Other stuff...C (from memory, hard to see in pic) runs to the crankcase breather connection on the oil filler. Check inside the airbox to see if you've still got the little twirly bottle-brush oil separator. A needs a rubber attachment and short length of pipe to fit the tank breather hoses the warm air pickup needs a curly "stovepipe" that lives under the tinware. It's screwed to the tinware and one of the no 2 cylinder exhaust mounting bolts. Worth carefully unclipping the two halves of the airbox "snout" (easy to break), to see if the little actuating rod for the warm air diverter flap hasn't rusted through. You're almost there...
'Dry fitted' the box today and it is looking good. Once it was in place, the manuals and your advice made even more sense, but here are few more questions/comments. a is tank breather What kind of rubber attachment do you mean Snotty? I do understand the bit about the breather pipe or hose which would go up to the T piece above the engine. b is thermostat valve for warm air start - one goes to carb/manifold to provide vac, other goes to d Zed, I have one hose coming off the carb to the dizzy already so I am guessing I need to go to the manifold or is there more than one connection on the carb ?. I have this at the moment, is it the right place ? If not, where should I be looking ? c shouldn't need a clip unless someone used a water spec hose This was nice tight fit and was preformed so I'm confident it was the 'right' part and does not need clips. air hoses do not pass through the tinware unless you have a 4:1 header, but there are rubber seals to cover the holes/join where the air hose fits to metal pipe sticking up from below. No metal sticking up ! the warm air pickup needs a curly "stovepipe" that lives under the tinware. This is the bit I think Zed was referring to and no I do not have one. Other than VW Heritage, I have not seen them for sell anywhere else. Check inside the airbox to see if you've still got the little twirly bottle-brush oil separator & Worth carefully unclipping the two halves of the airbox "snout" Did this (see pic below). The actuator on the thermostat valve seemed OK and there was smooth travel if I pushed it in. Seemed like a spring resistance on the inside pushing back ? Is it some kind of diaphram inside ? Is it worth putting some kind of lubricant on these parts (3in1 or light grease) just to protect and keep them moving freely ? Did not see any twirly bits inside though ! Assume you mean something that goes into A in the pic below Here is a pic of the inside. I ID'd some of the parts to make it easy for me to follow if you have any comments.
There should be a twirly bit that pushes into C from the outside. It separates oil out of the crankcase fumes so the filter doesn't get oily inside. Might also be a flame trap. Not sure where you'd get one. Fuel breather: plastic hose from breather pushes into a short length of stiff pipe (1" of copper brake pipe will do), which then pushes into a rubber connector that pushes over B. I'll try & find a pic...its 10A. Stove pipe - plenty around second hand, or repros. The vacuum drive for the flap actuator (there is a spring inside) comes from one of two places, depending on year of van: either a narrow pipe off the side of the inlet manifold or off a port on the carb that faces backwards (not the port for the dissy vacuum drive, which is ported, not raw manifold vacuum). Pipe goes from vacuum source to one side of the thermo valve, then from thermo valve to the vacuum actuator "saucer" on the airfilter snout. Inlet air cold: flap diverts hot air from under the tinware, not the snout; inlet air warmed up a bit, thermo valve causes flap to move to pick up air via the snout from the engine compartment. Worth checking that it works, as breathing hot air with the engine hot will mean you're down on power.
Anyone got any ideas on where I can get the rubber adaptor that Snotty refers to above as 10A ? I'm also a bit of a loss on where to take the vacuum from for the thermostat valve. I have looked for the places that have been suggested but I think I'm being a bit dense. Here's some pics of the carb. Can someone tell me where to pick it up from please. Snotty, do you have any pics on the 'twirly bit'.
Nope you're knackered. The usual places are blanked off/non-existant. One would be in the front (facing the engine lid) of the carb, other would be above/below the servo vac pipe on the manifold.
Nooooo. I can't fail so early in my VW career ! What about this Zed ? Could I come off of here (where the little bit of braided hose is) ? Any other suggestions so I can get back to a standard fit Air filter ?
Yes, it could come off of there, assuming the connector's a thin one (which it appears to be). You don't have a rear port on your carb. Have a look at the inlet manifold directly under the carb. Is there a small pipe sticking out? This would be the other "official" place. If not, tap off from the connection in the pic.
What Snotty says - you just need a good vacuum, which that will provide. That would also make for a good servo vacuum if it were larger diameter, it's a traditional place for the take-off.
Cheers Guys, panic over then and I will continue to try and source a 'stovepipe' and 'twiddly bit' (reckon I will need a little bit of help on this one to identify even what it is) and tomorrow I will order some air pipe seals and breather hose. If this is the traditional place for the brake servo though, then I guess the brakes are coming off of somewhere else that maybe the thermostatic valve should be using ? Maybe I need to swap them around ? I'll try and have another look tomorrow if the Christmas chores allow ! Really appreciate your help.
Spent a little time on this today. Have now drilled all holes in the metalwork and bolted up the bracket in a dry run. I also offered up a new stovepipe underneath but I thought there would be more than one bracket for mounting. Anyhow, the fit was actually quite tight and the pipe stayed in place without even a nut being used so it should be ok. If anyone passes by on this thread, could they just confirm the pipe is in the right place please.
Cheers Para. I'm never going to be at the level of you, Paul Weeding, Chris, Diddy and the many others doing top notch Restos, but their inspiration helps me to 'have a go'.
That is very tidy - and Sage Green (the best colour of them all) Nice to see someone going back to stock. Re the stovepipe brackets - the originals had two tabs. One screwed to the tinware, the other went under one of the no 2 exhaust manifold nuts. Obviously repros have done away with one!
Been fiddling again lately. Stovepipe now fitted with warm air pipe coming off it. Rubber seals fitted around all cardboard tubes to help seal compartment. Vacuum hose fitted to engine. Filter box fitted in place to ensure all pipes are right length. Did have a problem with Breather pipe going into the box. I wanted to use an old Dizzy lead cap as suggested by Zed, but the diameter was too big for the outlet. Could have just stuck hose into outlet as it was a similar size but I wanted something a bit tighter/sturdier. A trip to the local Motor factors had me walking away with 2 different sizes of tube that were pushed into the outlet. The smaller of the two being the right size for the inside of the breather hose. You can just make out the steps in this picture. I have now pushed the hose up flush and it ain't coming off.
