Hi All Having read through a couple of books now and had a little look at the Engine, I'm wondering if the engine has all that it needs. Might seem daft but when you don't normally have to get 'under the bonnet', it becomes a bit of an adventure and although I thought it looked pretty straight/clean and it sounded OK a the time, it seems to struggle to tick-over in the cold weather. So I thought, I know, I'll ask those lovely people on TLB to have a little look see and get their comments on if it all looked ticketyboo ! Here are some pics around the Engine. What do you think ? From above As you can see below, it has a pancake filter. Are these any good ? From the books I think a hose should go from next to the filler cap (see above pic) to the filter ? Would the current set up cause problems (crap in oil or oil fumes into the van) ? From Below Inside the Engine bay In the middle of the following pic there is a bit of braided hose with a plug. Any ideas what this is for ? I know the engine is not the original as the van was originally a 2l inj, then had a water cooled Mazda while is the US :'( , and now has Type 1 1600 but I would like to try and find out if it is Remtec, original or something else. How can I find out ? I googled the engine number below but did not get any hits. As I say, it seemed to run fine but after only a couple of short journeys, it now starts fine and runs on idle at higher revs, then as it warms up the revs drop and eventually the engine slows and 'dies'. Starts again fine but you have to tickle with the accelerator. I also get a bit of an oil fume inside but I have post under heating for that one (see here if you are feeling really helpful ! : http://thelatebay.com/index.php?topic=19537.new#new ) Any help or comments from any of you would be appreciated. Was this link too long guys ?
Couple of things I've noticed: Poor idle in the cold could be because you have a pancake filter and therefore no warm air feed to the carb. Ideally if you've got the stock carb, you would be better with the stock filter and then you could run a warm air hose to it. That braided hose with the screw in the end sticking out of your manifold end is a vacuum take-off - I used it on mine for the brake servo - it looks like your brake servo vacuum hose is attached further up the manifold. Your oil breather is venting into the engine bay - this may be what is contributing to your oil smell - where the hole is next to the oil filler cap should have a hose on it, which runs to the air filter. Oil fumes coming out through here are therefore vented back into the carb and burnt. As it is, they're probably being drawn into the fan, then over the heat exchangers and up the pipes into the cab, hence the oil smell.
There are more bits present than on my engine... And its a LOT cleaner. There is a hole needing a warm air hose for the warm air pickup from the cylinder head going to air cleaner through the tinware by the dipstick. The hot air will come back through there to make your engine run hot if it ever runs long enough to get hot. Also there should be a seal on the edges of the removable covers over the oil cooler and down to the little vent through the tinware on the front of the fan housing - trying to stop hot air blowing back into the engine compartment where you dont want it. I have seen silicone used there.
Thanks for the help guys. BB - how do I check if the carb is stock ? MJ - thanks for the tips, I'll get out there again and try to spot the holes you mentioned.
Which filter housing do I need and how does it fit ? From researching around the Internet and looking on here at others engine bays, I'm guessing I need the round oil bath type that sits to the right of the engine ? But sits on what ? Is it the little metal legs/bracket that is sometimes there and what I think is in my box of bits in the garage Or do I need the square type that also sits to the right of the engine and only uses paper filters ? If you have a pic of what I need, I would appreciate it. Cheers
ok so the filter sits on a bracket on the side of the engine bay but being a late 20L it probably dosent have one. Maybe you could cut one out of a scrapper and weld it in. or possibly see if a 1.6 beetle one will fit straight on the carb. you might want to try stripping the carb apart and blowing out the air ways, the idle circuit some times get blocked. the idle circuit only comes into action when the choke is fully off and the butterfly is fully closed, i had the same problem but that cured it for me. i ran my other 1600 Bay with a chrome filter for years with no problems.
You can fit oil bath or paper, but as you say you need the appropriate bracket for it to sit on. IMO oil bath are better, but they were replaced with paper ones to save the mess. With oil bath you just need oil which rarely needs replacing in this country, with paper ones you just need to replace the paper element from time to time. Choice is yours, either one will do.
Mine was a 1700 originally so had twin carbs and didn't have the filter mount. I just fitted a beetle oilback filter i had lying around.
Cheers guys, got me going in the right direction and after having done a bit more research on line and in the Haynes manual this time, and having another look in the Engine bay and my box of bits, I believe I have found a bracket for a Paper type Air filter. This means I am going to go the Paper filter route as I believe it is more in keeping with the van's age (Paper filters from '75 ?) and I already have the bits for the bracket. My plan is to get the unpainted parts welded back together and a sleeve put on the inside of them, paint the assembly, then bolt it to the part of the bracket still in the van. I should be able to get most of this done as favours, and it will avoid the need to weld inside the engine bay. Do you think it will be strong enough to hold the filter box I'm not sure how heavy the box asy is. I'm guessing a bag of sugar ? Here's my sketch of my plan if it makes sense. Now, who has a spare Filter housing they want to let go to a good cause ?
Your bracket should be fine - lucky find! Paper airboxes are fine and don't weigh much at all. I would suggest that you get one (I had a spare, but gave it away ) and trial fit it before doing the bracket, as the bracket will need to be the right length. There's a plastic peg that fits in a rubber grommet at the back (is yours painted green?), plus a spring clip that hooks over at the front to hold it tight. Likely to be wobbly if the bracket's not the right length.
Good tip Snotty, shame about the spare! I reckon I'll get the bracket made up but not fit until I have the filter housing as you suggested.
Quick update. Bracket made and just needs a trial with my new filter housing to work out where to bolt it. Here is my bracket... Here is my new filter housing thanks to 72_bay_edd. Needs a bit of a clean up and some other bits but I need your help again. Having checked the manuals etc. and from previous answers above, I have the following comments and questions. What is A for ? What are the outlets a B for ? C is the hose to the oil breather but should it be fixed with jubilee clips ? What is the outlet in D for ? I know E is for the preheat from beneath the tinware to the filter but I do not think I have the metal part that sits underneath. My plan is to route the hose through anyhow so it picks up some warm air until I can source the part. When attaching the air hose to the filter and also the other air hoses in the engine bay, should jubilee clips be used to fix them. Finally, I believe all of the air hoses should have a rubber seal around them where they go through the tinware ? Cheers
i think A is vacuum pipe or is it oil breather pipe ? and D is tank breather pipe but not 100% on paper filter boxes tbh might jog someone into replying if o am wrong though
a is tank breather b is thermostat valve for warm air start - one goes to carb/manifold to provide vac, other goes to d c shouldn't need a clip unless someone used a water spec hose no clips needed for air hoses - they generally jam in place, but fit them if you like - I do sometimes air hoses do not pass through the tinware unless you have a 4:1 header, but there are rubber seals to cover the holes/join where the air hose fits to metal pipe sticking up from below.
