Ive spent so much hard earned it would just be so dumb not to get the full monty one... Wife asked the other day if I have all I need to complete the restoration..... not just a little more....the list is at £1500 so far...oops
Yeah you may as well go full monty, you can use it as an immobiliser as well. You could always do the 123 after the restoration has finished, if funds don't allow.
They won’t give any more power. Just make the ignition more efficient that the old school rather crappy points system, which is far from ideal. And they’re maintenance-free.
I gave my painter the old engine parts including the dizzy (Electronic) so i am unfortunately "forced" to buy a 123....
Don’t think he is ordering them until June 1st, so you could contact him if you wanted to change your order. They are listed under “Clearance” in the shop: https://www.vwjim.co.uk/ourshop/cat_860448-Clearance-Sale.html All still versions there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
please understand my ignorance in this matter.... I’m assuming that a distributor designed for use on an engine with vacuum advance would have different internals to one designed to run on an engine that does not have vacuum advance, in respect of a sliding/rotating base plate that advances retards the timing in line with the vacuum draw from the inlet manifold respective of throttle valve position. I believe a 009 has counter balance weights inside that when spinning rotate the base plate to advance/retard the timing. I’m struggling to work out in my mind how the 123 distributor with vacuum (123VW-4-R-V) can work on an engine that does not have a vacuum connection, as the web site seems to emphasis the products as for engines with and without vacuum in ‘bold letters’ on the product description as if it does affect the use/design of the product. I can not go against what personal experience you have had with the 123 distributor, but from what your saying it appears a standard vacuum advance distributor not connected to the inlet manifold would work/perform as well as a 009 does! I would like to see a schematic of the 123VW-4-R And 123VW-4-R-V to see what difference the vacuum assembly actually makes to the inner workings. As if the 123VW-4-R-V does what the 123VW-4-R can do, why make the latter when the first one fits the job for both applications.
Feel no shame There are no moving parts inside a 123 (apart from the pickup/trigger on the dissy shaft). Timing advance is done electronically (in 1/2º steps), so no rotating bobweights. Adding in vacuum advance is done with a vacuum transducer, as used on modern engine management units, not a vacuum can. If it's left disconnected, it won't add in any advance. So...if you're buying one, better to get the RV (and possibly not use the vac advance), rather than the R, which you can't practically fit vacuum advance to later. My thoughts, anyway.
So...what does vacuum advance reliably do on a non stock engine with non-stock carbs on a bus? What is the advantage? I know what I think but it's unfashionable so I'll keep quiet for a mo.
..and most carbs will have a vacuum take off so might as well take advantage of it.. it's what VW wanted Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
I'm probably wrong anyway but you, Mr Snotty, may be able to help me find out. Can you think of a way I could monitor advance as I drive? I can only think permanent strobe and a camera. Can you think of a neater way?
.. without being am engine expert I'd guess pretty much the same as it does on a stock.. start the spark earlier when there's more air going through but at lower throttle opening to stop it from heating up as much?.. so you can run it a little less rich rest of the time to pass emissions tests in USA in the 70's.. possibly Worms everywhere.... Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Would be nice to know, but hard to think of a way to do it on a mechanical dissy. You could make some electronic gubbins that watched the pulses on the coil -ve, mebbe.