i think this is the end

Disaster - you'll increase the power then give it and more back with the gearing - result will be a type-1 with even more heat problems and no more power than a 1600. If you go for 1776, keep your 3-rib box.

 

I'm suspicious of motors with new bearings but no mention of line bore. Any chump can get an engine through warranty like that. I note this vendor never ever bothers with that.

 

Maybe... half the value is in the carbs, it probably needs rebuilding but the parts are there. Type-4 have strong bottom ends which is good obviously, but the cranking psi is down on this one (135 is normal) - who knows? It's a gamble that might pay off. Do you feel lucky? You have to ask yourself (or the seller) why has this engine been abandoned? As it's turnkey might just be he's going Subaru rather than rebuilding it.

 

I'm sorry for keep posting these..


but i think this may have legs.



https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Volks...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

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Billy's had that for sale for about 2 years. There's much to find to go with it (tinware etc) if you are going to spend that much on an engine and then extra on other bits and converting (is it @nicktuft that has one of these engines?) it to make it fit a bus it would be cheaper and a better end result to put an EJ20 in on your box. @Baysearcher run a 3 rib on a Subaru engine for a good while.

Like a Subaru swap it's not a weekends work to get you up and running. I'm surprised no one on here has a used 1600 to slap in quick smart and get you moving again.

 

They've been trying to sell that for years. More like 5 years IIRC. You have to wonder why they haven't used it themselves. It might be good if you already had a type-4 with exhaust, heat exchangers, carbs, tin, distributor, flywheel - all those things are wrong on that engine so what they are really selling is a long block with the wrong flywheel. Having said that I fitted one for a customer many years ago and it was a very nice engine for a bus but they were selling for about £450 then!

 

I'm just a little lost if I'm honest.

scooby makes sense for the life the van leads..


im also worried ill loose motivation after spannering away every night after work to get it done.


i like the simplicity of the aircooled engine, i can see a problem and i remedy it.


although its not been in my favour.. i had a beetle for 5 years, bought it in boxes and ran as a daily... it never came out after the initial build.

i just think the bus doing the miles it does...on the hills and whatnot.. its just killing the engines..

- a bigger aircooled engine with some extra cooling measures

- chance another 1600 longblock

- take some time out, gearbox refurb and scooby conversion

- buy something modern and get rid

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thank you for everything youve said, clarifying my thoughts and correcting everything,putting me on the right end of what to look for

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maybe we can rename techenders to TENTenders and all camp in tents and id feel welcome

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No problem, I enjoy it, I've spent a long time messing with various engine/box combos, built one from scratch, had another built by a friend who has muchos experience and I've picked his brain clean too!, Had buses with 1600 T1, High power 2020 T1 with a wasserboxer crank, 1700 T4, 2.4 T4, 3 rib, 5 rib and 6 rib boxes + driven many buses belonging to others. The news from all that is the best combo is the biggest mild type-4 you can possibly make and a 6 rib box... but it's not cheap getting there. Best stock is 2L type-4 and 6-rib box.
For big type-4 there are cheap ways (big pistons) that won't last very long and expensive ways (stroker crank) that will.

 

'Performance camshaft of your choice.' If you decide on this be very careful with your choice of cam. Ask here if you're not sure.

 

Throw a Type 4 2l in it, great motor. Hope it all goes well, dont give up...

 

Beetles are easy on the engine, buses are another thing altogether. You can't add cooling to the heads of an air-cooled engine and there lies the limit of what they can do. It IS possible to have your cake and eat it, but you have to really want to build a large capacity Type-4 - which is so expensive that Subaru wins on cost and reliability. Honestly, unless you're petrol head spanner addict I'd pay someone else t fit the Subaru - Pkrboo, if he's still doing it, has a detailed understanding, experience, contacts and the professional skills to do a neat job of it for a reasonable cost.

 

‘All cylinders compression between 110 and 115’ Sounds like a tired engine hammered at 80mph in bus, it leaked oil so new seals fitted - but it needs a rebuild. And don’t expect to fit it in a weekend.

 

He's not, I've begged.

 

That's a pity but I don't blame him - hard work.

 

It is. Especially as he has a family, full time job and is building an extension. He's a busy bloke.

 

Having a budget that probably included a Subaru conversion I decided not to, but go for a really new 1641 with the added cooling system I already had.
Which uses an oil pump swap to plumb in. So any T1 would work.

I decided to keep the momentum minimising down time and my time so buying one of the JK Preservation Parts engines minimised the faffing around.
Also I knew I was not buying an eBay tarted up disaster or a more usual collection of recycled parts as far as possible. It is basically NEW.

If I had blown a T4 and had all the other bits and was prepared to have an extra dipstick, the £2500 NATO gun power pack engine would have been an answer.

I also have an oil temperature gauge and head temperature gauges and on a hot day they tell me its time to slow down after a long hill, until the numbers start to drop.

 

There's usually a few in tents. It's not just about doing bits and bobs in a field, it's also about getting inspiration to do stuff at home and making contacts and friends within the hobby

 

Half of them broke last weekend.