Handbrake adjustment procedure

Can someone send me the correct handbrake adjustment procedure for a late bay (1976). The Haynes manual describes the procedure for earlier models. Having adjusted the rear shoes I note that the equaliser is not central. Might not have been before? The handbrake movement has reduced to 9-10 clicks, bites at 6 then really firm at 9-10, which sounds about right according to the Haynes manual. I think I just need to tighten up one of the adjusters to centralise the equaliser, but I'd like to know the whole correct procedure for adjustment. I found the JK 'how to' video a bit incomplete and vague.

Cheers

 

My understanding is The equaliser doesn't need to be equal as that's it's job

The cables wilL stretch differently over time so the equaliser is to compensates for this and give a even pull

 

If by equaliser you mean the bar at the front of the cables then undo the nuts on this before adjusting the rear shoes. Once the shoes are adjusted to spec then adjust the handbrake. As Matty says above the bar is to compensate for any uneven stretch in the cables.

 

^this, although the bar will normally end up straight.

Let the h/b off, adjust up the drums, then adjust the nuts to take the slack out of the cables with the handbrake off. Handbrake should be fully engaged at 6 clicks: the handle shouldn't stick out of the dash by much, or it may clout the gear lever in 1st.

 

When starting from zero as you are start by thoroughly slackening the handbrake cables.
Then stamp on the brake pedal. Adjust both drums checking the "drag" is even over a full turn of the wheel. If it is not you have a possible warped drum and you will not succeed in setting up properly. During adjustments keep stamping on the brake pedal.
After making adjustments to the drums then start tightening up the handbrake cables evenly and hopefully the cables are not too different in length although you should be able to get the adjuster bar straight even then indicating the forces are balanced both sides.
I had to fix a warped drum then my handbrake bites around 5 clicks and is hard on before it hits the EMPI speed shifter in first around 7 clicks.

 

Thanks for that. I did note that the drag was not totally even as I turned both wheels. Worse on one side than the other. The pads are new. I suppose it's a new set of rear drums then, followed by readjusting the rear brakes and then the handbrake cable! Can anyone recommend a reliable parts supplier, as I am hearing bad things about certain well known suppliers. There seems to be so many duff parts out there for our campers.

Cheers

 

If you've got original drums, keep them. Unlikely to be anything wrong with them.

 

Spot on Mike.
If you think about it that is the only logical way.
Completely slacken the hand brake cables then adjust the rear drum star adjusters to a slight drag and then readjust the handbrake cables to about 4 to 6 clicks.
Works every time.

 

Drag on the drums can be caused by a build up of dirt and or rust in the groove of the edge of the drum. This can foul on the backplate. Just a note on @mikedjames post for completeness , the reason for applying the foot brake is to centralise the brake shoes.

 

Sorry to bump an old thread, does anyone have a look to a decent video explaining this, or can anyone explain it to an absolute idiot? I want to get it done this week but I'm not all that mechanically minded.

 

The main point is to have your shoes adjusted correctly with the handbrake cables slack before adjusting the handbrake cables.
Just done mine as the handbrake lever was at 23 clicks on a bit of an incline.


Now at 13 clicks yanked on hard. Good enough. I never adjust the cables after initial fit and adjust. They don't stretch unless they are actually breaking IME.

If your equaliser bar isn't straight it's likely one of your cables is breaking/binding at the rear inside the Flexi conduit. Cables are cheap for what they are and include the conduit.

 

Six clicks, please.

Thank you.

 

Centred shoes several times, shoes are right and that's the main thing.
The cables were always set on the loose side and I never had the inclination to tighten them that last little bit. Still haven't. It's an effort/reward thing.

 

But thirteen clicks is complete madness . Are you on drugs?

 

They would drum you out of TheSamba.com for ten ! Not following the rules as they are written ! You would lose your Californian (Not to be confused with the Nevada one) AN-6 pipe fitter Master Technician Rating, and be forced to retrain on AN-4 instead..

 

Have a look here.....

https://www.justkampers.com/videos/Rear-Brake-Replacement-39.html

 

If I ignore video 1/2, and follow video 2/2, is that the process?

I have no idea but want to do it myself

 

Yep - not a bad demo. Best to watch part 1 first, as your rear drums probably need a good clean up.

 

You went and watched them didn't you.

 

Seen 'em before. Seem ok.