Getting standard heating as good as poss

Just ordered some too. The seller must be thinking "what the".

Any of you guys come up with a good replacement insulation to wrap around the main heater tube. All I can come up with is plumbers hair felt, but it's not that good and fairly flammable. Any ideas? ???

 

That bloke's doing alright out of us, I've just shouted some in as well

 

for 6 quid you cant go wrong really. i think my tubes are ok but everything can always be tweaked

 

Silver. How about this stuff?

http://www.racsenergy.com/60mm-solar-pipe-insulation-high-temp-outdoor-13mm-wall-black-p-159.html

 

I have just had an idea for my main tube between the cross members. I have some leftover Tri Iso multi layer insulation. It is excellent insulation and will wrap around nice and neatly, I can cable tie or tape it on.

I just need some advice on how hot that middle tube gets, as I have never connected my heat exchangers. Anyone know?

 

Dean, I know you have an aversion to this, but I can tell from your replies (you're concentrating on the levers in the cab) that you haven't been underneath. .

You need to start it up with Ali making sure nobody nips in and drives off. Then get underneath and follow the heater pipes - twiddle the heat exchanger flaps and work out what's what and where the leaks are. Then report back.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180726829681?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

£1 to anyone who can find me these on eBay.

 

replacing your concerntina parts on heating?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-5mm-1-4-Silicone-Coupler-Joiner-Coupling-Hose-Silicon-Rubber-Radiator-Pipe-/290674154525?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&var=&hash=item43ad879c1d

ID is slightly larger

 

If you are after Functional rather than origional what i did might be of intrest...I stripped out the whole thing and replaced it with modern pre lagged ali stuff.

BUT fisrt thing beware of the white felt rings on the ends of heat exchangers/black placcy flexi and on the ends of the Y piece its ASBESTOS. get it wet and get rid of it wear a mask dont breath in the dust of death incarnate etc...

back on topic...


Screw fix domestic air ducting (£40 for 10 mtrs).



fits over the rear beam with a good cross section for the air to get throguh.



I knocked up a T section with a sport welder it has diverter veins inside to get better air flow. there is a similar little pipe throguh the front cross member.




Its been on for 10,000 miles coupled up to ORIGIONAL 68-71 bus heat exchangers actually gets the wife complaining about being too warm! its really important that your HEX levers pull ALL THE WAY to close the air dump hole on the back of the hex. and that your pipes from the fan shroud are tightly connected and jubilee cliped on

ensure you disconnect the battery when fitting incase you touch the Live terminal on the starter solenoid

JB

PS mmmmmm Toastie.....

 

On my KG i wrapped the Heat Exchangers with exhaust wrap. You have to be careful that your shirt is pulled down cos it will burn your arse through the gap in the seat.

Like Hoverjohns approach.

 

Have any of you that have replaced the concertina pipes with silicone hose noticed an increase in noise with the heating on.

As i understand it the structure of the concertina pipes internally is meant to deaden the noise coming through from the engine?

Inside they have a mesh type inner with rockwool type stuff between that and the outer concertina.

I like the idea and it would definately improve sealing and the airflow a little, but does it make a racket?

 

Pardon !!!
























No noticable difference....

 

I actually think there has been an increase in noise since i changed mine..... more of a whoosh noise when the fan obviously changes speed.

doesnt bother me - quite like it