Just exactly how vigorous are you expecting to get when "sleeping and seating" ?? seriously though, no flexing at all - as per westfalia original its actually two pieces of ply bonded together - its really strong. Sorry i don't have any better pics. You can see the thickness if you zoom in (said the actress to the bishop etc.. this has gone downhill very quickly.!)
Correct Its actually fine - there's enough room but its a bit of a faff if you try to drop/ raise the bed when the curtains are tied back (they are more bulky like that and get in the way). As long as you do stuff in the right order its fine.. close, but fine. I didn't re-install the arm rests - couldn't see the point as you can't really put your arms on them.
Well then, despite many great reviews of Rusty Lee they have a 7wk lead time and according to some of you its the wrong avenue to explore; I don't need the metal frame and they're clunky. I've gone with a pair of rock'n'roll hinges from NLAVW which I'll build the bed around using 18mm ply ( @zedders you have a lot to answer for ) it's a cheaper, quicker alternative but the instructions are poorly written and it would appear the accompanying photos were taken during a WW2 blackout. Does anyone have some clear of photos of the hinges in situ demonstrating where they should sit in bed and seat modes that I can use as a template please?? For example do I need to fit some rubber bungs beneath the seat near the seat belt anchor points for it to rest on as feature on other metal framed 3/4 beds I've seen? Also if anyone is willing to divulge their first hand experience of pitfalls, such as leaving enough of a gap between bed and van (featured above - top tip guys!) These would be gratefully recieved. Otherwise we can just wait a couple of weeks and I'll be posting them myself right here! Please feel free to bring your tails of bed related woe (not that kind @davidoft !) to this thread. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Tip. Westfalia used wood screws on one board (the back one?) And setscrews into special fittings for the base. Those fittings are available, I'll try and find a link. I assume with your hinges you also got the props?
By props I'm assuming you mean two frames that screw onto the seat board in order that it sits securely on its support base/kickboard. In which case yes. Thanks! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
So, now you have to make a box of sorts to partially mount the hinges and support it all. You should be able to work it out. I don't have many useful pictures unfortunately. Same sort thing over the arch. Where you put the props depends on how fat yer missus is and what you intend with the cupboard space below. I built speakers, the Eber outlet and some drawers into mine. These are the "Pronged T nuts" Westfalia use (and me as I copied them). The prongs pull themselves into the ply. Because they end up under the foam it means you can't see or access them but you can still dismantle your seat. Captive wood nuts.
Before you takes the plunge it's worth checking out which thickness of foam your choice is designed to take ...some hinge based systems only take a 3" foam (maybe yours is different) which you may regret ...but then again you may not. Just thought I'd mention it as foam is a key ingredient in the R&R bed comfort
No useful photos he said! This is great and I was thinking of drawers in mine to in order that you can access the space regardless of the bed. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
I feel a bit guilty because I talked you into it and there's some work to do! I kind of meant regarding how to position everything. Mine are yer actual Westfalia hinges, I got them from the lovely @davidoft. They extend onto the rear shelf between the undulations where Westy's had a captive nut (fitted inside the fuel tank area). I did the same as I had no engine at the time and it was easy to get in there. There are other ways though if you have that extension - and I hope you do, it's very helpful positioning the hinges to the van. There's a bit of shuffle possibilty with the boards and still have them meet in bed position/not have a gap as a seat (partly the foam as Delilah says). I took advantage and managed to make the bed a couple of inches longer as I'm tall-ish. I can't remember the details, I think I gained a bit there and made a deeper seat base. Maybe the back ended up a little shorter too.
Don't feel guilty, there's always work to do! Part of the fun surely? I do have the option of the bolt into the back shelf.. haven't got around to thinking that far yet. Still plenty of other things to happen before it all goes in which is why I'm picking people's brains now. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Hello again Bay Bed Hive Mind. Finally got the windows back in with new seals, there was much rejoicing. Just wondering whether anyone has a photo of their bed hinges bolted in through the roof of the petrol tank housing? I haven't got the captive nuts in mine and If I was going to guess I'd bolt it through the second depressed rib in but a few of you mentioned needing to leave enough space to account for the curve... Cheers. P.S. entirely unrelated seals in windows shots below. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Well, it's a long thread of blah, but we rivnutted our frame in. Different to yours but may help if you can persevere with the ramblings https://www.thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/chip.33075/page-4
Thanks, appreciate the offer. I have hinges and am going to build the rest with my chippy mate. If it goes horribly wrong I'll be in touch! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
