I bought an Inspection Hatch from HAYBURNER, as I needed to change my Fuel Level Sender. Costs £35 https://www.hayburner.co.uk/products/bay-window-fuel-sender-access-hatch I'm happy with it, and think it looks good....if you like that sort of thing. Here's my thoughts on the part, as it's not perfect, Pros - Not expensive - Really good bit of metal (about 1.5mm, nice and thick, sturdy) - well engineered; feels like a proper part, not a nambypamby part that you sometimes get - captive nuts in the inspection hole, with perfectly matched screws - plate has bent ends that perfect match contour of floor - Looks really good, in my opinion Cons - No gasket supplied, but the hatch defo needs to be sealed ; I used silicon for the large plate, and 1mm petrol resistant paper gasket for the access hole cover; time will tell if it is sealed enough yet - Would be better if the whole base plate was bent to match the floor, you'd get a much better seal - If I had a cut of floor that was bigger than the required hole, I would probably choose that; some rubber gasket and some self tappers to close/open the hatch It's a good part, and I would do it again.
Sealed it with silicone around the edge as without I'm sure fumes would be more prevalent Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Good work. I bought one from the States, rather stupidly after I’d already cut the whole (some years ago). I haven’t got round to fitting it yet. I hope it fits! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Petrol fumes seal update - 3 days later, and with a full tank of fuel and the hatch completely exposed with all windows shut in this summer heat, and not a whiff of petrol. Very happy. Sent from my SM-N970F using Tapatalk
I wondered about that. My Bay came without a Fuel Vapour System. I managed to replicate one to fit the dual carbs. That sorted my fuel smell out, mostly. I had an access hole cut (nothing fancy, literally just a hole) so the Fuel Gauge Sender could be accessed but I need to make my own lid for it. I’ll make it as air tight as possible but it’s good to know that if I smell fuel it won’t be my workmanship; it’s something more serious to investigate Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
While I was restoring mine I replaced the sender and all the filler and breather hoses. But if I brimmed it, it stank - part of my fire wall is missing where I removed the spare wheel well, the smell comes through the heating. It was worse cornering for the first 20 miles, left or right hand. It was the new sender - it leaked up through the middle and formed a pond of petrol within top of the sender. That was potentially really bad. I spotted it by elimination, finally brimming it then removing my sender hatch. Shocking!
An access point really makes sense. I had quite a large one cut (mechanics sweating just at the suggestion) so I can fully see inside and reach most of what’s in there. Am I right in thinking I read a poorly sealed Sender can give incorrect fuel tank levels? Also, I think I read that you mentioned there is an earth for it hidden in a hard to reach place through the paint tin lid - wondering if I can reach it through my hatch. Inaccessible spaces make me nervous Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You'd be lucky. The wire from gauge to sender is often trapped under a tank strap. Have look top far side of your rear wheel tub (remove wheel or lie under) and you'll see the wire as it leaves the fuel tank area. Then you can stick you phone in through the paint tin lid aiming at where you think that is! You won't reach the connector through the top unless your hatch is the width of the tank - it's blower down, nearer the tub.
It’s better than the piece of deck and Duct tape that mine’s covered with at present. But possibly not quite as neat as the more expensive hatch kit I got sent over from the States but haven’t got around to fitting yet... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Same as mine - just a flap cut on 3 sides and then folded back and gaffer taped down - I could do with that kit to make a neater job.
Exactly what my mechanics did - we were all in a hurry. Got them to cut it out fully on the next visit. Now i’m just planning on boxing it out with a decent frame within the cavity. Put threaded inserts in the frame and somehow seal it. Probably waterproof foam tape. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No Hard to think how that would work. A tired sender is more likely. You shouldn’t have any fuel fumes in the tank compartment if the tank breathers are in good shape. Once you’re in, you could always make your own sender earth: pull the existing connector off and stick a new cable in earthed...anywhere.
I was nervous enough cutting it out the first time, I’m not in a hurry to do any more cutting to tidy it up - at least that’s my excuse! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
