Fitting SS quiet pack exhaust

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by 12345, May 30, 2013.

  1. Just taken delivery of stainless steel heat exchangers and stainless steel quiet pack exhaust (both from JK) and was just wondering if anyone had tips on installing this?

    Also what size hole should I drill in the 4 to 1 section?

    Thanks
     
  2. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    What holes that fella - I fitted one to our '73 & it needed no drilling
     
  3. The one for the heat riser? It might be called pre heat pipe, haven't fully investigated it yet
     
  4. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Ahh yeah - mine came drilled (same JK stainless system) but yep its the flange for the pre heats
     
  5. You'll have to play it by ear drilling the preheat pipes - it's not easy. Mine was tussle to fit, as well...
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Buy a very good quality drill bit(s). Stainless is rock hard and you have to hit it at an angle. Sod of a job.
     
  7. Thanks all my dad got a brand New mikita drill set the other day so hopefully that should be okay, the way the pipe is angled you would have to go in at an angle anyway but we will see how it goes!!

    Any tips for the fitting in general? Never done any kind of exhaust fitting so basic tips could go a long way!
     
  8. Yes it was
    Broke 3 bits , start small then move up
     
  9. Centre punch before you start drilling and start of with a small pilot drill then go up a size at a time untill you have the sized hole you want
    Drill at a slow speed and dont force the drill down add oil as you go along to cool the steel

    If you go to fast and hard at it and build up too much heat the stainless will harden and make it even more difficult
     
  10. matty

    matty Supporter

    You would think it would be pre drilled
     
  11. Now you tell me

    I gave the usual
    "Give it Death" approach and super hardened it.
     
  12. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Not all of them do - stainless steels by nature soften initially then go on to harden up later in use. If you are drilling them, you need HSS drills with TiN coating on, that way they cut like butter and also give them a touch of cutting fluid (light oil will suffice), make sure your drill is nice and sharp & you will have no issues!
     
  13. I think the assumption is that 4-into-1s are for a twin carb setup. They weld the preheat pipes on almost for appearances sake: they're usually not very well done.

    Drilling them through, especially on stainless, will be a bugger of a job (I've tried in the past, and given up). You're trying to drill down a roughly bodged-on tube into a curved surface. It's possible you'll come through the side of the pipe. Either make a pilot hole using a dremel, use a pillar drill, or give up.

    If you've got your air filter hot air arrangements sorted, you can likely do without the exhaust preheat. I run without it and it's fine.
     
  14. Can I just ask what size should I drill?
     
  15. I see what your saying but I'd feel happier with it drilled through so it's in theory the same / similar to what I've got currently, don't wAnna cause any future problems
     
  16. You'll have to measure the holes. I'd put money on you coming through the side of the preheat pipe...
     
    12345 likes this.
  17. Ok that's fine, was just checking it wasn't supposed to be smaller for some reason. Really hoping not to go through the pipe
     
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    As big as you can. I've had most success tickling it with a die grinder but you need good bits.
     
    12345 likes this.
  19. Thanks the drilling went ok broke a couple of bits but the hardest bit was nursing the carb pre heat pipes onto the 4in 1 bit. When the pipes coming off of the carb aren't attached to the exhaust are they meant to wobble a bit? Got worried as we did a bit of prising then removed everything to reset it and noticed that the whole carb moved when we wobbled the pipes
     
  20. You'll need to tighten the bolt that holds the manifold to the crankcase. You'll also likely need to adjust the throttle cable if the carb has moved significantly.
     

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