fitting a new carb

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by christerry, Nov 10, 2019 at 9:44 AM.

  1. Drill a hole in the EMPI manifold just below the carburettor, insert a threaded hose spigot and connect the brake servo to it. I used the rear most pipe, the secondary choke on mine for a vacuum feed for the hot air flap which is required (see later .. )

    If you want to make absolutely sure you dont get petrol in the brake booster hose , make sure it loops up before heading down.

    JK's responses to the punters are pretty a bit rosy-tinted compared with reality. It can be great, it can be a bit meh. It can be jetted for anything from a 1600 Ford Capri to a 2800 Ford Granada, which is sort of where it comes from (with a water heated choke rather than electrical)

    You can ding a dent in the fan housing for the choke power supply - I had to provide an insulator to protect the tag from shorting out on the metal (at least use an insulated spade connector)

    At least they now sell it with a decent throttle linkage - many years ago I paid about half that price but I had to design and assemble the throttle linkage to match.

    Please read my how to: Executive summary :

    If your Bay has a T1 engine, and 100% stock air filter/preheat and heat risers then you need to keep them with that progressive, and throw away the air filter provided by EMPI.

    Unless you want poor fuel economy, a big flat spot and uneven running on cold days.

    If you have a T4 engine, save up for twin carbs.
     
  2. :thumbsup:
     
  3. Neither the progressive nor twin carbs are actually the answer. The answer is EFI.

    All carburettors are a crude semi-controlled compromise.
     
    Valveandy, Iain McAvoy and EggBoxes like this.
  4. Sorry Mike , had to be done :D

    :hattip:
     

  5. Expect a reply


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  6. :thumbsup::D:D
     
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  8. Stock would also have flat spots with that EMPI air filter unless you jet it so rich you cant feel the flat spot.

    The progressive is not easy to set up and I decided at the beginning to spend the cost of a dual carb setup on a progressive, a large box of jets and an AFR meter .. £250.plus the £270 of the cab at the tine

    . Avoiding the cost of rolling roading added to the dual carb setup.

    20191111_125614.jpg
    A 100% functional stock system sitting on an engine in good condition will be perfectly OK.

    However there are too many VW s limping around after TLC from so-called experts with leaks and worn out parts.. for these fitting new parts can help.
     
  9. Professor Mike James strikes again


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  12. Have you got experience of this?

    Looking at the op’s link.

    https://www.justkampers.com/43-0622...eetle-197...-1979.html


    For what’s on offer it does seem very expensive, you could probably get a decent twin carb setup for similar or less money.
     
  13. +VAT but considering it’s Eurocarb and decent linkage it’s not bad
     
  14. Are they really genuine Webers?
     
  15. I have no experience of spunking £500 plus on a single carb not designed for a VW ..

    My 914 came with one . It’s probably now deep in landfill

    Twins are always going to be better , shorter runs ... I have twin dell 36’s and microsquirt FI
     
    mcswiggs likes this.
  16. I don’t disagree about twins etc. But I had a progressive and found it to be very good. Never had any issues. It was jetted to suit. Winter was a bit rough until warm but as I hardly used it when cold wasn’t a issue.

    I would certainly have another progressive, not that it’s now needed being fi
     
  17. That what they say ...

    Does seem very good value for money
    Dell 36’s and 40’s are quite hard to find and expensive ... if I had a 1600 this is what I’d fit
     
  18. anything can be made to work but @£550 that’s crazy money
     
    Dubs and snotty like this.
  19. Agreed. £100 fare enough. But that is silly money. It’s as if someone has but the decimal in the wrong place.
     

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