Exhaust / Heat Exchanger Removal

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Greenwesty, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. So I started the winter project to day, my US spec heat exchangers and exhaust is shot so I'm replacing it with the simpler UK spec version. Obviously I have to take the old system off and thought it to be a simple job WD40 - 8 nuts and a little support done yes?

    Well the PO has some how welded the exhaust manifold very close to the nuts the hold it on to the head, I can't get a socket on the nut :mad:

    [​IMG]
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    Any ideas of what I can do to get the manifold off the head?
    Ta.
    James
     
  2. Is there room to get something like a Dremel grinder bit in there?
     
  3. As Snotty says. ^^ It does look tight though.

    Worst case scenario is a small sharp chisel and split the nuts, only problem is a fair chance of damaging the stud
     
  4. Cheers Guys So it's just a case of trying to remove the weld with what I can and see how it goes, I was looking to take the engine out and replace oils seals soon anyway but wanted to get the exhaust sorted first. :( Maybe it will be easier to bite the bullet and pull it out now. (first time for me though :eek:)
     
  5. If the old heat exchangers etc are going you could cut them off and grind most away on the bench. You would struggle with it in the van.
     
  6. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Have you tried tapping a socket on with an hammer?
     
  7. Of course he has tried hitting it. Isn't that the first thing everybody does when something doesn't go to plan ?? :D
     
    MarcT512 likes this.
  8. I gave it a little tap! The weld on one of the nuts almost comes to the top!
     
  9. You could try a sharp cold steel chisel on it. To try a break the weld off.
     
  10. Or use the chisel to bash the nut around.
     
  11. Or split the nut with the chisel. :)

    Remove your push rods and tubes first to keep them out of harms way, and give you more room.
     
  12. Crows foot spanner :thumbsup:
     
    Lasty likes this.
  13. or you could sacrifice a socket and turn/grind it down so there is not much wall thickness , engine looks clean ,don`t replace seals just for the sake of it . i don`t see what the weld is doing anyway but a dremel with a rotary carbibe burr will shift it
     
  14. As PW says ...
    If you don`t want to head down the dremmel/chisel route a 13mm crows foot is your friend.
    Personally i`d try to grind or split the nut off - looks as if it might pull out the stud with the nut, but not a bad result overall as you`ll probably want to replace the stud anyway !!

    :hattip:
     
  15. What you need is one of these.
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    [​IMG] ;)
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014
    keithandtrudystype2 likes this.
  16. You need a long socket. Don't try and use a standard sized socket as they're too fat so the side of the socket will foul against the side if the HX.

    Use a long one (think mine is about 60-65mm long) they're long and slender and will easily fit over that nut. Give it a light tap to push it home if needs be
    :)
     
  17. Thanks for all the help but it's not the access that's the problem, may be the photos aren't clear enough. The weld is so close to the nut I can't get a socket on it and if I could the nut won't rotate as it will foul the welding.
     
  18. The photo is clear enough - 2 choices.

    1, Grind off weld on the flange so socket will seat cleanly onto the nut.
    2, Chisel or grind off the nut risking damage to the stud ..

    Can`t really see a problem to be honest .....

    :hattip:
     
  19. Have very recently done exactly the same thing of changing from US to UK setup. Didn't have any problems getting it all off, however still struggling to get my replacement heat exchangers sealed :(

    Have you managed to source all the different bits of tinware and heater tubes needed for the different set up? Took me a while to track everything down!

    I have a pretty good complete set of US exhaust/HE kit that I'm trying to get rid of now should you want to change you mind and need bits to bodge your current set up until you drop your engine....

    Nick...
     
  20. Are you using the right socket? If you've got a short fat one it won't fit. You'll need a long thin one as I mentioned above. From the photo there is plenty of room to get the right socket on there, otherwise how did the po make the repair? I doubt they did it in situ unless they're a complete dumbass. Get a thin socket on and hammer it on, not too hard though it you'll risk breaking the cylinder head, they can take a fair whack though.

    Or drop the engine and pull the heads off, 10 times easier than lying on your back swearing
    :)
     

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