Engine strip down

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Fil6, Apr 10, 2016.

  1. I did the WBX first, and the pins have to come out through the water jacket, so it had to be a slide hammer. Did the same with the 1600, but only from habit I think! However, the rods don't like sideways thrust (or so I'm told) so you need to be careful whatever you do.
     
    Fil6 likes this.
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Get the piston hot and they slip out.
     
    Fil6 likes this.
  3. So, being extra careful, I could knock this out with a rod and wooden/rubber hammer, while supporting the conrod to keep it steady.
     
  4. Blowtorch?
     
  5. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    make sure the rod you use is softer than the gudeon pin ie Aluminium or a softish brass..you don't want to burr it up
     
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  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Yes, but not as hot as that sounds! Ali is a heat sink, you could leave a 100w bulb under it for 5 mins, I used to use a lead light.
     
    Fil6 likes this.
  7. Ok, I will try that, I have a set of 400w lights I use in the garage.

    Thanks
     
  8. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    I find that a 'carbon steel' deep socket from The Range is adequately soft to not damage the wrist pins when tapped with a smaller hammer.

    And there is a school of thought that says they should be able to be pushed in by hand.

    I found if you need a bit of persuasion on cylinders a 13mm by 25 mm bit of B&Q's finest match stick makes a soft drift on the shortest fins which might not snap any fins. On the other hand it is still possible to whack a stick hard enough to strip fins.
     
  9. I just used the extension piece from the socket set as a drift big end against the pin... fits nicely into the piston .. but I'm a bit rough

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    MorkC68 likes this.
  10. Feck it! Newbie mistake number two!

    Number 1,2,3 came out with a little heat and gentle persistence.

    Then got carried away and started on piston 4, knocking away I then realised that the bloody oil cooler housing was in the way.

    Now need to make the improvised socket on a thread tool.

    Lesson number 1. Don't rush, think about what your doing

    Lesson number 2. Listen to the advice on here!
     
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  11. If you hammer hard enough, the oil cooler problem will resolve itself ;)
     
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  12. Ah yes... I took the oil cooler off...

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    Fil6 likes this.
  13. Oil cooler is off but the housing is solid.

    How did you do it?
     
  14. i
    broke a few fins off my barrels last week trying to part them from the heads, looks like they had overheated a bit anyway so i'll get some 1641 to go back on, might as well............
     
    Fil6 likes this.
  15. 3 then 4 knocking the pins with a drift towards the middle of the engine. . I.e. 3 towards pulley 4 towards flywheel..



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    snotty likes this.
  16. You'll be surprised how well some things clean up too..

    [​IMG]

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    mcswiggs, Cov1987 and Fil6 like this.
  17. How did you get a socket into the pin hold with the oil cooler housing in the way?
     
  18. With piston 4 spun right to top dead centre the drift just fitted in between the two lumps on the oil cooler "pedestal" and into the pin hole on the piston

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  19. ...and don't forget to take out both circlips or the drift doesn't even get to the pin and you sit there hitting it wondering how stuck that pin is....
    I was tired....

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  20. Newbie question. What is a drift?
     

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