Engine Replacement Advice Please

Could I ask how much ish it was to buy/fit and has all been hunky dory sin Embargo? No oil leaks/rough running etc??

 

But at what cost? As said, sadly I'm not skilled enough to take this on and don't know any mates who could either
What about the engine in general if it's not too clever or something else is uncovered whilst investigating? I'm on,y trying to be clear what's the best/most economical route

 

I think that's what we were thinking, ie 'new' gives a reasonably quick and whole solution. I do think that the garage guy was saying that the time taken to strip down and investigate simply more than likely is a waste of money...

 

You have choices : from £500 on eBay (questionable recon) to £2300 (for all new engine) plus a days labour call it £1000 to £3000 .

And dont forget to fit a temperature gauge if you did not already have one fitted. That might have saved your engine by showing high temperatures before it went wrong.

The more you spend the better it could be. If you could afford an all-new engine go for it. The more of somebody else's failed engine is left behind in a reconditioned engine, the cheaper the replacement , the more there is to go wrong.


I have just DIY put together an engine for about £600, starting with a seized corroded engine off eBay for £51 - including buying tools and recycling bits off the previously running bus engine. Used YouTube videos, the Engine Shop DVD, the Bentley manual and a VW engine service manual for information.

About a month worth of evenings and weekends working on the driveway outdoors, taking it from trashing the engine to having the replacement running in in the bus.

A previous £850 recon engine (2005 prices) line bored out to the max and on its last legs with massive end float for 20000 miles lasted 10 years and 39000 miles.

 

I had mine reconditioned by @robertparry who gets on here occasionally, you may be pleasantly suprised
He`s always busy therefore not a quick turnaround but worth the wait in my opinion . If the case is ok he`ll be able to sort it out .
I wouldn`t want anyone else building me an engine to be honest but allow AT LEAST 4-6 weeks ...

 

I think it was about £850 exchange to buy, not sure on fitting as I had a few other things done as well, but it shouldn't take your guy too long if he knows what he's doing.
It does "Mark its spot" but not enough to need topping up between changes. No other issues so far.

 

It depends on if you have a builder you trust.
Either way you will pay for having taken out and stripped of exhaust, tin, carbs, etc to the bare engine and built back up again and installed.
Once you have your bare engine, if you send to someone like Rob who Lasty (and I) recommend, I doubt he'd even charge you much to strip it down and assess the damage, it doesn't take him long. But as Lasty also points out, he won't be rushed if he's not happy with parts etc and he's fussy. And he has a backlog, I'd say kiss goodbye to your summer. If time doesn't matter that's different.

I might be tempted by one of Heritages all new bits type engines, but the trick is to never assume all is well whatever the provenance of your machining/building/parts. As far as engines go I am well bitten and rather cynical from personal experience I might add.

 

I must thank you all for your feedback, all useful. Some of it chimes with advice already given by VW guy we've seen ie choices from eBay to engine shop (circa a grand), heritage (circa 3k), to using his custom builder, the only one of the options he will actually recommend but he says up front that's more like 6k all in
If an engine shop one might reasonably be figured to last 20k miles that would probably be good...that's about 8-10 years for our type of use.....however I accept @zed s (and others) comment along the lines of 'you never know'...
Sigh. Nowts ever simple

 

Thanks @NickJ
If we did this and it lives for say 20k miles, that would probably be ten years worth of miles for us.
The other problem I have is the garage we use doesn't want to fit one of these as he's done a few and has had problems with them after. Problems covered under warranty have been an issue as the manufacturer says we'll pay you to fix but under estimate the time needed to do the work. He's got enough other work on to not bother with the hassle I guess.

 

On a related note, if we're going to have a new engine, what's the 'best' way of getting a bit more oomph? I don't mean scooby do, just a bit more so you can genuinely cruise at 60-65 and get up those hills a bit easier....
1641/1776/2ltr? Are they realistic options and are there any pitfalls?

 

Robert parry also has my engine case for machine work hes a very knowledgable guy

Im getting the engine case and heads machined to take larger barrels and pistons
This will up the capacity to 1776 apart from an aftermarket exhaust and a larger jet in the carb everything else will remain stock
This will give an increase in torque just in the right place for a heavy bus climbing hills but still keep the same driving characteristics

 

Until you get to a hill.
I found, for me, 1600 power was embaressing if there was a lot of roundabouts one after the other or similar. I don't like to cause a tail back because I have to, but not against driving slowly and doing so if I so choose - after all - nobody appears surprised to be stuck behind a slow camper.

 

We just got a heritage 1641 with an Engle 100 can and twin carbs. Its a lot better up hills than our old 1600. I imagine most of the improvement is down to the carbs though!

 

I'm a T4 owner as well
What I was really saying is cruising at 60 on mway and also not dropping to 20 on a big hill!
Our engine that just died () was comfortable ish at 60 but did seem to be screaming somewhat....this from an ex scooterboy where Vespas and Lambrettas were routinely run at top revs for miles and miles.....

 

I do realise you are a bit stuck with a bus with a dud engine but you will save yourself LOADS of money and gain quite a bit of pride and maybe fun if you do have a go at some of the mechanical work. Someone once said there are two types of bus owner, those that have taken the engine out and refitted it, and those that are going to.

I don't know what your budget is but the VW magazines such as Camper and Bus will give you an idea of how much recon engines are and some quote for upgrades too.

Do you have a driveway or garage that you could use to take the engine out? Getting help to whip it out, taking off the bits you are keeping and then sending it on a pallet to swap for an exchange one is probably your quickest and cheapest option. Getting a trusted builder to rebuild it to a new spec will take a fair bit longer depending on who it is and how busy they are.

If you are willing to have a go I bet there are a few in here who are near North Notts who woul give you a hand but you would need to be willing to get your hands dirty and buy a few tools

 

Why does everyone have to drive so fast?
Chill out Bitches..................

 

Full on pop top westy with all other associated cr4p (clothes/chairs/bloody bbqs etc!)?

 

Compression ratio makes a BIG difference to a 1600. I bought some NEW heads once (from a mass engine builder) and was accidentally sent a pair that had been opened out increasing their volumes and of course lowering the CR. It was a dog! It would not accelerate in 4th at all unless it was down hill. After sussing out what had happened and swapping the heads it went like a bomb.
It's a suspicion only, but I think it possible that some builders deliberately keep the CR down to increase chances of getting through the warrenty period.