Hi guys the never ending story of the washer in the crankcase! In order to get the main crank bearings relocated on the pins I had to take the dizzy lower shaft out to enable the crank to sit in properly! Subsequently when I have replaced it I have had to guess where the start of the comp stroke is on no 1 cyl by looking at when both valves are closed! At this point I made sure that the slot was parallel to the front pulley! Will this be ok or do I need to reset it once the heads are on so I can determine the start of comp stroke? If that is the case how do you ensure you don't drop the thrust washers into the crankcase when you pull the shaft up and Start the whole process again! Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks
Generally the washers either stay on the shaft, or sit in the case where they normally would live!! A magnetic pick-up tool is very handy in this situation!! I never install the dizzy drive until the engine is all back together... a little bit of grease or assembly lube holds the washers to the dizzy drive, although I think type 1 ones, have to go in the case first (I normally stick to type 4s)
Thanks Paul So what your saying is I should take the dizzy drive back out now then put it back in once engine is rebuilt? Re thrust washers haynes say to slip them down over a suitable rod and then put the dizzy shaft in!
If your i'm about the dizzy drive itself , if your lucky can shape a bit of doweling to wedge in the small recessed hole on the drive, also I have used a rawl bolt in the past with success , think it was an 8mm one but can't quite remember. Or if your feeling flush you can cough up the 40 odd notes for the removal tool ,
Have just put pulley back on and as far as I understand, as long as the lower shaft is set up so the offset slot is parallel to the pulley and towards it Whilst number one piston is at the start of comp stroke, (achieved by looking at camshaft and both valves are closed throughout this cycle of piston! Then as long as The pulley timing notch is in line with the crank case it should all be ok! The problem I have is that I don't believe this is an original pulley and does not appear to have any timing notches!! Any ideas!! These photos where taken when the dizzy notch was in the correct place and I think no1 is at start of comp stroke, trouble is it doesn't appear to line up with anything!! Therefore I am presuming I need to take dizzy shaft back out and replace when heads are on to confirm start of comp stroke, but even then how do I get it exact as I don't have a timing notch to line up to crankcase!! Ay ideas anybody Thanks
You install it with the engine at tdc on cylinder 1 I can't remember the angle of the drive... That's what the haynes manual is for
That's definitely not the original pulley. The numbers on it are the timing marks. TDC on the pulley is where the Scat logo is.
Thanks I have the angle of the drive, from the Haynes manual! It is just that it also states that it should be at the start of the comp stroke on no 1 not TDC. If however you are telling me as long as no 1 is at TDC then I will set it at that making sure the angle of the drive is correct according to Haynes Thanks a lot
I guess "TDC" is the give away huh? Theres your timing marks so line TDC up with the joint in the crank case.
Thanks just needed to know where and what to line up as not clear in Haynes! At least now I know if I can get the shaft out without dropping the thrust washers into the crank case, I can reset in correct position! Just wondering how I make sure no1 piston is at TDC on comp stroke? Maybe need to wait until heads are on?!
The pulley wheel is on a woodruff key so can only go on one way but there are two TDC on each cylinder aren't there? Comp/ fire and exhaust/inlet Just feel I probably need to have heads back on so I can see if exhaust valve is closing and inlet valve opening or if both are shut throughout TDC does that make sense or am I being an idiot as usual
