CV Boots & Joints, advice for a first timer....

Hello All,

Just sorted the front end of the bus out, since ive had it i have never greased the front beam.... so sorted that.
also replaced the front calipers, disks and pads as i had a binding caliper, and needed a general overhaul.

now im on the back end.

I managed to source a set of 4 x Hans Pries Topran German CV Boots.

Today was the day, cleaned of the 10 ton of crap around the joints, cracked off and removed all of the bolts, lifted the drive shaft off and took inside.

Then the fun begins.

Cleaned off some of the Marmitety old CV grease.
Removed the Circlip.
Then struggled with the first CV joint, got that off but had to use a puller on it to prise it out.

The second one, WILL NOT budge.

It goes past the circlip indentation, but thats it, no amount of whacking will budge it, the puller i used on the other one will not go any tighter, and I have given up tonight.

Any tips please.

Also have the otehr side to remove and try

 

Knock it back down and run a small file down the splines

 

...or hang the CV from your vice and tap the shaft down...

 

had it in the vice, tried knocking it down, with way more force than a tap, but still not budging!
may use a ball end of a ballpien onto the shaft and get a mate to hit that down with a sledge!

 

Copper mallet for the win ...

 

Are the splines galled at the end? Might be worth dressing them with a file.

Better to have a shaft that's tight than one that's loose!

 

Do you need to take both CV joints off ???
If you have one end off can't you just slide both the old boots off the shaft, clean it then slide one boot on after the other.
Might save breaking/disturbing it unnecessarily

 

That maybe the way to go, was just wanting to strip it to give it a proper good clean out of the old grease

 

Take 'em off and clean 'em

 

i did all of the above..... clean it, filed it, whacked it about in many different ways and then I






















































phoned up heritage and bought a new shaft complete with joints fitted........................so much easier.

 

Once the old rubber gaitor is off,You can still clean the CV whilst it's on the shaft.
When you come to refit the first gaitor, wrap the length of shaft in a black bin bag, spray with WD40 and it should slide on without picking up any dirt.

 

so i managed to get one complete joint off of each shaft, and dissasembled the other joint leaving the inner race on the other end, cleaned it all up, got rid of the old grease, proper clean, painted the drive shafts and reassemebeled with the new TOPRAN CV boots, splurged the 90ml of new CV grease in and refitted, all ok, no rumbling etc so it must all be good
over 3 days on and off this has been the worst job i have carried out on any vehicle i have owned, and i think i would rather spend £140 per side and just change the drive shafts every time it needs new boots than go through that again

 

It was probably just the fact that the ends of the drive shafts were so mushroomed by hammering that they would not come out through the CV joint inners. As @snotty said, filing the splines to get the joints to fit over the splines may be needed.

And take care with some of the cheap driveshafts on eBay - there is an identical length six bolt fitting Porsche driveshaft, but these come with different pitch splines on the end so T2 CV joints do not fit. I found out the hard way and ended up having to buy the mankiest cheapest knackered driveshafts off eBay and cleaning up the correct spline pitch driveshafts.

This was after going through all the filing the splines and hammering sequence to get the old incompatible Porsche style CV joints off the end of the incompatible Porsche driveshaft. .

 

so after all of that stripping, cleaning, boot replacementing, re greasing and refittinging i have a rubbling now, so on the look out for a decent set of new driveshafs complete.

any recommendations, GKN should be availble from eurocarparts, the chap is calling me tomorrow.

i cant find the length anywhere as eurocarparts list a shaft, for my bus, but when they ordered it in and i went to collect it was for a t25

 

Just replace the joints not the shafts after all you know how to get em apart now!!

 

Is it a clicking noise or rumble/hum ?
It might be a wheel bearing on its way out

 

i,ll be buggered if I'm doing all that again mate!

 

a pretty continuous rumble after refitting the driveshafts after id been messing with them that wasn't there before!

 

Were your balls blue? Fnarr. Or the bearing races, not a good sign if they were. When hammering out the races, get a drift or punch and place it in the dimple in the end of the shaft, it's what its there for, then belt it. No burred over drive shaft.

 

If your wheel bearings have been replaced recently with the cheaper ones, like the only ones GSF Totton had in stock on Easter weekend Saturday, they may well be the reason the bus was rumbling.
As my case where the CV joints were just starting to make a noise but looked really worn when I pulled them apart. Changing wheel bearings including one put in about 4 years ago got rid of the rest of the noises.