Quite hard to read your rather grubby caliper , but that does look like a hair under 22mm at the case web. The good news is that the case is absolutely not too battered, and could be fixed up at some later point by machining the case web down to 21mm and fitting a suitable bearing. TBH, I'd slap the lot together and enjoy it, strip and have it machined at some later date. Note that when you're measuring the "proper" endfloat, you're going to get a false reading: that bearing movement will be added in. Don't be tempted to shim the extra out (which you can't do anyway), or you may add too much shimmage, worst case locking the crank up. I'd stick the existing shims back in, slap it together and enjoy for the time being. All type 1s will suffer this eventually, as the mag alloy case is relatively soft, and gets punished by operation of the clutch shoving the flywheel into the case hard. VW expected it, hence the supply of oversized bearings.
'tis said that starting it up with your foot on the clutch increases the rate of wear, though not so sure about this as the wear seems to occur on the inside case face. Still, doesn't hurt to avoid doing that.
Yea it’s just under 22mm. I’m happy enough to just put it all back together and as you suggest, run it for now and address it at a later date, at least I know the state of play now. Probably a good thing that the oil leak led me to strip the motor. I did wonder why the case would wear so much but I never considered the force that the constant clutch operation would exert on the crankshaft-all makes sense now….
On closer inspection today I discovered a couple of slightly alarming issues. The centre crank bearing to me seems very worn and also one cam follower has a crack in it. Should I act on either or just throw it back together and forget about it?
Bearing shell is no surprise - just wear from dirty oil. What state is the crank journal in? I’d def replace that tappet…but what state are the other ones in?
Replace the tappet, check the rest for wear.. I suppose that will then need the new tappet procedure, to condition the new one to the cam. The 2000 rpm for minutes straight from first startup, to splash it well with oil as it burnishes against the cam. Otherwise it might just wear away in 1000 miles. I would keep watching for low oil pressure as the bearings wear, and prepare for a rebuild in a while.
Good thing about Type 1 is parts price, set of mains is £41, type 4 is £74. I would probably change them, cam bearings, big ends and rings. £120 ?ish.
The journal looks perfect and I’ve checked all the other tappets-all ok. I’ve ordered all the bits I need to re-assemble it.
For the time being, just slap it all together again. It'll last. Bearing shells would be better replaced, but you can do that sometime later.
Posting your clips today. If I can find it, I’ll send you a squidge of sticky cam/tappet lube. Plain old engine oil for the rest.
What’s best to de-grease the mating surfaces of the casings before assembling? I was just going to use carb cleaner or brake cleaner….
Case-closing checklist: - have I glopped up the cam plug thorougly? - are the crank and cam synched? - have I forgotten to fit the oil thrower down the front (ask me how I know this )
