Compression issue? Parts and guide to fix

I’ve Just got round to while self isolating rebuilding a 1911 type 4 motor. It’s therapeutic as I’ve plenty of time on my hands & no rush to get it built.

 

Ssdly the book was unavailable,

I was really bad today I went out to work on the old Beaut wind was to cold for me, came in and fell asleep on the sofa.

May I ask one last question (there will be alot more questions )

What's the difference and advantages and disadvantages in the two types of lifters

 

Less maintenance with hydraulic lifters and when they are pumped up they are quieter than mechanical lifters. However mechanical cam/lifters tend to be more reliable as hydraulic ones can cause oil pressure issues I believe. The engine building gurus will be along shortly to add to the pros & cons.

 

Hydraulic need less adjusting and less noise as there no 'lash' or gap .. theoretically or when they're working anyway

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

Hydraulic lifter advantages – in theory they don’t need to be adjusted once the initial preload is set and tappet noise is reduced. Disadvantages – they bleed down and rattle until the oil pressure builds up, they can pump up and prevent the valves from closing reducing performance and, as there is no clearance between the cam and the lifter the oil film is constantly wiped off increasing valve train wear. And there is very little choice in cam profiles if you wish to replace it to improve engine performance.

 

Don’t all modern engines have hydraulic lifters...

 

That was me with the auto. With patience and only one person (me) I've taken out my t4 engine complete with gearbox and exhaust attached. It needed two jacks, axle stands, ramps and lots of blocks of wood. I'll not do it that way next time.
The reason I didn't separate the box was that on a previous occasion when I came to put the engine back there was no drive and I then had to take the box out and send it away for repair at enormous expense. I've been wary of this ever since.

 

yes

 

@andyv, what happened to the box?
I ask because I can only think of only one thing, and that particular thing could be fixed in 1/2 hour with a 10p circlip.

 

This was 11 years ago, and I don't know what it was. However, the drive was getting weaker during a run over the Alps. In UK on the flat it was OK but I suspect it was waiting to expire, and this was the final straw. It's been fine ever since and I'm keen to not upset it.

Gearboxes are not my thing but I think the auto has some friction bands which act like a clutch and I'm guessing these were worn.

 

Ah, slipped my mind that it was auto.
Torque convertor.

 

Is it out yet

 

I have been cleaning the case half internals today which weren’t too bad as it was a Vege recon with very little mileage. Quick Gunk out of the gunge in the sump area. Then managed to knock over the drain tray on the garage floor

 

I wish I could say it was but thay would be a lie

I do not cope very well with the cold at all.

So I am ready to buy A new camshaft being payday tomorrow, I'm going to have to do this as cost effective as possible, whilst I'm on lock down from work I got told today I'll be on 80% minimum wage

Can anyone point me to a website where I am about to buy a cam

 

This is the one I use but it’s not hydraulic. https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/product/ac10920086/
https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/AC10920086-scat-c25-camshaft-1700-2000cc.html

Whatever cam you buy you’ll need matching lifters and if you change from hydraulic to solid lifters you’ll also need pushrods.

 

Stupid thought: if T4 engines have hydraulic lifters, why are they so hard to lift?

 

I would seriously get the engine stripped & assess the internals before ordering a Cam. Minimum you will need is Cam, followers & gasket set. It would be best to split the casing & get some pictures posted on here. Let the engine builders guide you

 

This would be the hydraulic camshaft at Coolair VW.
https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/product/071109021/
However you will need a Cam gear & bolts also. Unless you want to drill out the rivets from the old gear & reuse it, only issue is you will need to get the face of the gear machined or the bolts will catch the oil pump. And accurately drill out the rivet holes.
https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/product/ac1092017/
On a positive side Coolair does have a 10% discount on through April.

 

If your buying new off coolair.. ask them for Latebay discount to your order.. it varies product by product but all they need is a username

 

Any progress now it’s warmed up a bit?