yeah theres a ring that sits below the rotor arm ive checked its pushed fully home If the neg on the coils showing a constant voltage despite rotating the engine then its not switching Is that correct?
thats my thought, so no switch off. the ring is what creates the on off signal to the electronic ignition so if its not in the rght place then the signal will be wrong.
Reds going to terminal 15 on the coil its the same terminal the fuel cut off solonoid is connected to Blacks going to terminal one nothing else is connected to this terminal Im starting to think its duff out of the box
Ive a petronix ring and pic up here i may remove the power spark one and try this petronix instead Do you know if the condensor and points from a 009 dizzy will fit a vac advance dizzy?
i assume you only have electronic ignition in there with no points at the moment? not sure if the points etc fit there are 2 different types handed in opposite directions. so either they will go straight on or they are the wrong ones.
No instuctions with it dude its preassembled and should be plug and play Im either thinking its a duff electronic ignition or i remember reading somthing about the coil needing to be of a certain minium resistance Im getting 3 ohms across my coil This is what i bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SVDA-Electronic-Distributor-Powerspark-VW-Camper-Bus-Split-Beetle-T1-T2-/120804392777?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c2080bf49
ok i have a new thought,maybe you cant do timing how your trying to do it. i bought one of these( non electronic) and it looks ok, the only think i would say is the dwell may be a little big. but anyway. get timing mark for number one cylinder lined up on crankcase, remove distributor cap turn distributor until rotor arm points to number one, lock distributor in place, go turn key. tell me if it starts
I've never known a duff one from the box but if you put your wires on wrong it'll be knacked straight away, usually just plug and play rick,
It wont start davidoft On this dizzy the the rotor arm points to the carb when on tdc for number one is that correct
I havent connected it up the wrong way round as i was aware of this damaging the unit so i checked on here first Its driving me bonkers because as far as i can see ive done everything correctly
If it turns over the dizzy is ok, it would'nt even turn over if broke, have your got the dizzy fully seated in the hole with the bottom of the dizzy in the slot,
however as long as it points to number one cylinder on th distributor, then for the minute thats fine, new plan remove lead fom number one cylinder put it to earth as if checking for a spark, rotate engine, look for spark. you can use this method to time it roughly
Ive removed it all and refitted it Ive got the engine to run and timed it with the timing light for some reason it wont static time and even with the engine running the multimeter wont show the coil switching So its running and its timed spot on so the dizzy and electronic ignition is fine However the threads been stripped in the case previously where the dizzy clamp bolts to the case The nut and stud wound out as one and the bottom of the stud is full of alloy Ive fitted it back and tightend it to just before it goes slack again but there is a chance the dizzy could move slightly What do you guys think i should do Try and tap the case out for a larger stud? Swapping from the 009 with points to this new vac advance with electronic ignition has made the throttle response better and the timing stays steady now Im still having idle problems and i suspect the carbs pulling in air through the throttle spindle bushes so im going to have to remove the carb and replace the worn bushes with some brass ones ive bought Please oh please let it have nylon bushes and not steel ones otherwise im up poo river
