Should be fine pushed a bit further in (matron). As long as the seal bears on a clean bit of the crank, should be ok.
Went to Techenders and stopped about 50 miles in for a coffee and stretch. Checked underneath and oil drip again. More of a weep really. Spoke to garage and they are suggesting a flywheel change and it was unlikely I was going to get oil on the clutch. Carried on to TE and got home again without issue and minimal oil loss. New flywheel it is then! Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
If you're paying a garage to supply and time to fit a speedi sleeve v fit a new sub £100 flywheel, I expect the garage would recommend going for the flywheel. It wouldn't make much difference to the whole bill? If you were DIY no labour costs you'd save a bundle with the speedi-sleeve. Horses for courses.
Do you mind telling me an approx cost of having someone take out the engine for clutch work etc please ?
aye total slippage, I got to TE ok but on the way back it kind of totally gave up and I struggled to get up any slight incline on the M1… still sitting in Woolley edge services. I’d noticed my gearbox coupler fork thingy a lot oilier than normal so thought oil might be getting onto the flywheel but reading above that might not be the case…
While sitting waiting for recovery clutch has totally given up. Just spinning now while in any gear…a bit of pushing involved to get it loaded up…
Its why I used the word faff. All of the actual part replacement costs will be relatively less than the labour costs of taking the engine out and putting it back.. For myself it takes a couple of hours each way because I forget things or the engine is at the wrong angle on the jack...
The gearbox fork leak is a brass bushing and a lipseal at the front. Nothing to do with the clutch, just another worn out hardened aged seal. If the clutch is slipping like that its usually the gearbox input shaft oil seal , as most of what comes from the engine flies off the back of the flywheel and misses the clutch plate, while the gearbox stuff travels along the splines and neatly coats the friction plate. [I did in my engine because when it let go I was flooring it in 4th and the engine ramped up then the clutch bit, and it ripped the dowels out again.] The input drive shaft seal is the kind of same deal, a seal is a £7 part with ages spent getting to it .. but doable in a weekend ... (I had both seals in my parts box at TE.. BTW...)
Not when it happened to me, it was the flywheel one. Yours is type-1 - I could in my prime get one out/refit in 30-45 minutes each way. Clutch/oil seal and o-ring 30 mins easy. A type-4 was the best part of a day to do that job, it's not comparable.
If it's like mine was there's so much oil in the bell housing the clutch is getting/got a bath. Even if only the flywheel teeth it would run onto the clutch when you stop the engine.
This will the third time the garage has removed my engine recently. Should be getting quite quick at it! Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
Did the garage check the end float? Even trivially - push forwards and pull back on the crank pulley. If you can see it move its too much. If you can hear it move , it may be OK, if you can neither hear or see it move it should be OK ( providing this is an engine that ran OK when its hot). If it has end float that is excessive then fitting the seal in at a particular depth may not help as the groove in the flywheel moves relative to the seal..
They did and said it was ok. There is a bit of movement and they didn't think it was enough to worry about. Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
