Following your slightly stressed out post that you pointed us to, @theBusmonkey, did you learn any tips about putting the 14mm ring on plug 3. Is it possible with the tinware on and no fettling etc?
It's is. It requires simply the patience to clearance the ring so it doesn't snag the thread. Then there's the stress of making sure the ring is sealed to the crush washer pn a new plug...some folk cut the crush off but I never have. Everytime I do the plugs I swear I'll just open the tin a bit and bond the sensor to the head...but never do! It's the sensible option to be honest... In fact there even may be a bit that can be drilled and tapped but that's a job for when the engine is out.
Depends on the heads. On OG 1800 heads the plug is too close to the recess to fit the ring without a modification to allow the wire to pass between the plug and the head. Remove the crush washer to avoid having two seals, the ring is all that is necessary and the plug stays at the same height in the head.
CHT, oil pressure and temperature below the radio, rev counter where the clock was. Used Smiths RVC 80mm rev counters are becoming harder to find but MG breakers usually have them. VDO no longer manufacture the CHT gauge but CSP have an alternative - it's not cheap. https://www.csp-shop.com/en/brand-shops/cylinder-head-temperature-919-085-113c-30799a.html
AMC heads are probably more of a copy of the later heads than the 1700 so fitting the ring might be a challenge. Remove the plug and have a look.
Not looking good... Here's mine. 1 & 3. I'm not sure mine is much different, I had to bend a dog leg in it so it didn't tangle with the hex on the plug or the plug socket. Maybe 1700s have little more clearance? Blummin phone focussed on the tinware.
Thanks, but back to the OP and his question, looks like CHT is the way to go if it fits, but I'm keeping my rev counter as well 'cause I like it!
While we're here - where can I buy a mating plug for the VDO sender? I don't use the VDO extension lead and although the connectors I have on the pins work it doesn't look too good.
I’ve already got enough misleading instruments without adding an always potentially wrong clock and / or a miscalibrated tachometer. I’ll stick to asking the Mrs what time it is, and judging my gear changes on the level of racket coming from the back.
Assuming you looking at revs in 3rd gear and not doing dump starts or reving nuts off in 2nd. Whats the benefit of a rev counter, as the speedo will do.. Anyone know what mph you get for 4k in 3rd gear for the standard engine sizes.
No, but IME Type-1 stock 1600, 3 rib box, 40-45-ish is a good place to change up. 50mph and performance is dropping off - once in a blue moon territory IMO. That's from driving without a rev counter though. Type-4 1700 3 rib box. Mine was just getting going at 40mph, I pulled two dinghies on a trailer at 60mph for 10 miles in 3rd by mistake but it was quite happy. I regularly was up to 55-60 in 3rd, Tpe-4 have a higher rev limits, the 1700s like it. Type-4 2L, 6 rib box I've driven other peoples 50- 60mph 3rd - it won't be revving as high as the 1700 (gearing) but the peak torque is lower in the revs so there's less need to thrash it, it'll be much happier in 4th than those^ so 50mph is good, 60 if you're in a big hurry I didn't have a rev counter before I started on my non-standard engine journey, it didn't occur to me to get one, but I like 'em now I have one. Do I pay it any attention? Nope, never look at it, my engine likes low revs. into 4th at 50mph, it's type-4 6 rib, it would rev higher but that's about the top of it's happy band.
I would put in a vote for CHT, even though mines a Type 1. While an oil temperature gauge shows say 100C, and after a couple of miles it goes to 105C after a big hill, the cylinder heads go from e.g. 110C to 130C much quicker as you are on the climb. These are thermocouples bolted into Mexican cylinder head temperature bosses cast into Autolinea/EMPI 040 heads. These are measuring nearer the exhaust port than the plugs, where VW put the sensor for the Mexican FI. As a result theres maybe 20-30 seconds time lag. On a T1 head you would have to Dremel out a clearance slot for the thermo couple ring tag if it went round the spark plug. The thermocouples are cold junction compensated by the converter chip they are connected to, so they arent affected very much by ambient temperature. Now all I have to do is look at mid range jetting and timing (vacuum advance at mid throttle) to get the CHT lower when I back off and go slower. If the heavily loaded bus will manage the slope at 62 mph it runs lower CHT than backing off to say 55 mph.. something I have noticed before, probably because jetting and timing generally gets set up for WOT.. 55 is a speed I go through to get to 65 ..
I'll stick with my 42. Which apprently came from, if at the BBC they worked over this many hours in week you could then claim for the extra hours, meals and the universe.
