Changing to electronic ignition?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by ArtyGirl, Apr 4, 2014.

  1. I fitted an accuspark module to my bus,really happy.
    I adjusted the timing to about 28 deg at about 3200 rpm.
    In my opinion what the timing is at idle is not important,as long as its advancing to 28 at these revs then thats it.
    Turned out my idle timing is at 9 deg.
    Much better performance doing it this way.
    I found this out on thesamba,search and you will get a full explanation.
     
  2. Think I might go to electric ign too. Are the rev limiters worthwhile while I'm at it? Cheers.
     
  3. foe

    foe

    Sticking with my points, gives me a reason to check me engine every so often :)
     
  4. No. They just introduce another potential point of failure into your ignition system ;).

    You'd go deaf before over-revving an air-cooled engine.
     
    Top Banana Racing likes this.
  5. Just a quick question but once these babies are run in (1.6 type 1) what should they rev to?
     
  6. You don't want to rev a type 1 much over 5,400 - difficult anyway, as they make such a racket. The crank has no counterweights on (for simplicity/cheapness), and it'll start whipping and generally knackering the bearings.

    If you've got a rev counter, you'll find that in normal driving, you rarely rev over 5,000 anyway, so not really a problem.

    They're not high-revvers!
     
  7. Thanks for that, I don't have a rev counter, my understanding is with stock wheels and gearbox I am doing 50 at 3000 rpm so would I be right in thinking 60 is 3600 70 is 4200 80 is 4800rpm obviously in 4th!
    Essentially am I right in saying if she will reaches speeds of 70mph I am not over revving? :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014
  8. I have a rev limiting rotor at 4500 rpm. It has not caused any problems. I have never hit the limit yet in any gear.
    Accuspark sell an electromic one thats adjustable i seem to recall.
    I c@ck missen at 60mph - only got there once by accident. 55 is fast enought for me.
     
    fritt, physiopro and holmsen like this.
  9. I wouldn't drive a 1600 at 70mph more than a few minutes.... They were designed to do 55/60mph!!

    Just because you can do 70mph doesn't mean you should!! :)

    Seen plenty of 1600 bays dying a death due to people trying to drive them at modern motorway speeds!! :eek:
     
    snotty, physiopro and holmsen like this.
  10. Turns out Accuspark are about 3 miles from me so if anyone wants something for techenders pm me!
     
  11. I put one of these in mine, you need to build it up yourself but it works very well and is a fraction of the price if you are handy with a soldering iron.

    You need to buy (or find a suitable) plastic box to put it in once done. Basically it will turn your points into a cam, instead of lasting 5000 miles they will do you for 50k and you get a better spark.

    http://www.velleman.co.uk/contents/en-uk/search.php?searchphrase=ignition

    pg
     
    snotty likes this.
  12. Thanks Paul
    Just curious but once ran in would like to do around 60 on the flat if that isn't gonna trash it to much! I figure 3 to 4k a year should last me a good 6 or 7 years hopefully :)
    Thanks for advice and sorry to jack the thread
     
  13. Yep, they work well (and cheap!).
     
  14. I've found there's a sweet spot at about 3,700, where a 1600 sounds happy. Probably 50 - 55mph. As Paul said, the 1600s were designed as local delivery vans, not motorway cruisers - they can do 70, maybe a bit more, but they don't like it. Faster than about 60mph, and your oil temp starts to rise dramatically...
     
    Lasty and tyke2 like this.
  15. Thanks snotty great advice which I am happy to heed! Did 100 mile trip last Sunday and felt 50 to 55 was sweet! :)
     
    snotty, 1973daisey and tyke2 like this.
  16. You can't use one continuous pipe from the filter to the pump. You need to use a solid metal line where it passes through the tinwear into the engine bay.

    Personally, I have flexi pipe from tank to filter, clipped up over the gearbox. Flexi pipe from filter to just before tinwear. Then switch to metal, routed neatly around side of fanhousing and towards pump. then short flexi to join solid line to pump.

    Using proper fuel line clips at all the joints
     
  17. They just seem to sing at those kind of revs (well, mine does). Rev much higher, and you can tell they don't like it...
     
    physiopro likes this.
  18. This is so true
     
  19. All changed over to Electric now - what a difference!!!
     
    physiopro and Paul Weeding like this.

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