Sorry, Chassis memeber = floor support. Having removed some of the covering metal there is surface rust, but feels solid. Once we have removed the rest of the rusted metal it will either be clean and repair or replace.
Hi All, The grind and cut continues with some photos to follow on Monday. We need to replace the rear wheel arches but I can only find Klockerholm replacements. I haven't been particularly impressed with their replacement parts so far so, so would prefer to find something else. Does anyone have any recommendations of good quality replacement rear wheel arches?
You have two choices - Klocker part panel or VW brazil which is the whole panel including the window surround and only available LHD.
Burt is now almost complete stripped of parts and rusted panels, ready to go off to SPL for dipping next Thursday. We have one last thing to remove which is causing us a problem. We cant get the boot lid hinges and spreings off at the moment. Can anyone help with some advice? I've already lost the skin off 4 knuckles trying..... Here are some photos of it ready to go. Spring plated and torsion bars have now been removed too.
Are you taking the spring plates off before dipping? I would personally as the rubber donut bushes on the torsion bars will get dissolved anyway, saves a job later! I'd remove the arms connected to the spring plates too!
He said the spring plates and torsion arms have been removed You may have missed the text as it between pictures Dont get the sides mixed up Burt as they need to go back on the same side
Thanks for the tip! luckily one of the bushes got stuck on and I can remember which side as I have carefully stacked them ready for cleaning.
I had to edit the post after the last bit to add that. I took the photos as we went to do the last stage of spring plates and torsion bars. There is nothing else we an un bolt, un screw or prize off except for the boot lid springs.
Im keen to see how the SPL dipping process fairs..I saw the split they did on Campervan Crisis but that was TV, if you know what I mean
Also make sure you mark the torsion bar and spring plate in relation to each other before separating them
Been a while since I did these but same as zed said, big long bar to prise them closed and then I think you have access to knock the pins out. Keep clear of the hinges at all times though, when they come shooting back to the open position you don't want your face in the way!
what happens when its dipped is it going to be sprayed or E coated (didn`t think anyone could do this ) to prevent the rust in all the hard to reach places ?
You're right. No one has a bath big enough. In th elast stage of the process they apply a rust inhibitor, which should give you a few weeks without any trouble. We are planning to put it in a home made poly tunnel to put a coat of primer over when the key welding is done, and will have a couple of dehumidifiers running in there while we work on it. All the smaller components (Doors, replacement sills under body panels etc will be electro ferritically undercoated, so they should be ok. We need to crack on with the work as soon as it comes back and pick a dry day to pick it op.
Yup, no problem. I'l do a few posts on the whole process, from drop off to pickup and the way the shell survives after without the primer etc.
