Yes, the stripes look like a saw mark or something. I hope it wasn’t snapped off and someone hammered the drum back on.
They cut those studs off when alloys are fitted may just have enough thread left to have rusted on, firm strike on the stud with a punch may free it
That just looks like it was put on not lined up with the bolt holes last time it was replaced. Use @Bigherb method if the drum spins freely. If you havent got a 46mm socket, cut the nut off as close to the drive shaft as you dare with a disc cutter, then smack it off with a cold chisel and lump hammer. Ten mins tops.
No one in a main dealership would work on the brakes with the hub on, if you did my foreman would have had a word. Removing the hub means everything is exposed you can see everything is correctly fitted. Rather than working around the hub. It also means the hub nut is less likely to be seized on for when you really need to remove it and if you want to remove a siezed on drum you just lay the drum on the floor and and hit the studs in a circular fashion with a copper mallet rather than bugger up the backplate.
I can't reference main dealership best practice from before when I was born...if that's what they all did then fair enough. Call me fussy, but if the drum is being held on by a lip between brake shoes and the drum (the most common cause of difficulty), how does removing the hub help? Don't you end up buggering the back plates as the spring pins will still hold the brake shoes to the backplate?
I think that if it feels solid I would have the hub off get it on the bench and soak it in proper penetrating oil from both sides then if it dont tap off with the hammer and wood on the studs I would cobble a puller on it or press it, when it goes you will be surprised how far the oil has penetrated.
Ok here’s alllllll the answers The marks through the hole are machine marks from when the hub was turned on the lathe, the drum has been put on with one hole lined up and not the other. Call me Sherlock Now then to get the drum off , hit the drum INWARDS, hit straight between the studs towards the centre of the van, put nuts over the studs if you’re not as good an aim as me, 4/5 solid whacks , not girly whacks @Merlin Cat but big fat manly ones like my good self, the drum will “ bounce “ off the hub and you will be able to gently pop it off, the back plate will re shape but they are reasonably tough, you can use a lever or 2 between the backing plate and drum for extra leverage, if you’re really stuck @Merlin Cat you may call me on the hot line xx
As I said to @Ermintrude, move to East Grinstead and I’ll do it for you, although people around here will expect you to turn up at the right time and on the right day if they book you to do plumbing work
Because it is more often corrosion around where the drum centres on the hub and around the studs that holds the drum on, if the shoes are fully backed off they will clear any lip on the drum as the lip will be the same size as a new drum which you can fit over new shoes easily. You can see the corrosion marks here and around the studs.
