I guess my glamourous assistant is not as patient as yours. I’ve used an Eezibleed for many years, it makes bleeding an easy one man (or woman) job and leaves the assistant to make the tea.
For years I’ve used a Sykes pikavant one way valve in a tube into a plastic container. With me pumping the pedal and never had a problem. If it’s not bleeding then there’s a leak somewhere
Had a problem last year trying to bleed the brakes after a new m/c, (on a MG) no matter what I did had little effect, then my brother told me to 'GRAVITY BLEED' them. So simple and worked. The m/c must be higher then the brake cyclinders to work by this method. Attach a bleed tube to brake nipple, place a jar at open end of tube and open bleed nipple half a turn (or a bit more until the fluid starts to flow out) and sit back and watch the fluid slowly run out with any air bubbles in it. Keep a close look at m/c and top up when required . Took 15 mins per wheel and the pedal was firm after that. Good luck..worked for me.
An Eezibleed also avoids the awkward situation when the assistant has been pushing the pedal up and down for several minutes, the fluid level has been checked and you’ve been opening and closing the bleed nipple without any sign of fluid appearing. You’re beginning to think that there is a problem with the master cylinder when out of the corner of your eye you notice the clutch cable moving every time you say “down”.
Let tyre down to nearly flat.. as the pressure can pop the brake reservoir or at least blow brake fluid everywhere when the cap lets go on the eeziblledinhellwheredidallthatgoalloverthepaint!! For some reason the forum showed me a double post of the original posting, so I edited the second one which turns out was not a double post but the first one showm twice to me only... I was confused and I had just eaten 5 chocolate digestive biscuits in the back of my bus for lunch..
I always did my motorbike brake bleeding this way, milk bottle and pipe. So easy, as you can depress the brake lever and turn the nipples and see the bubbles all at the same time. Impossible with a bus obviously, lol. Thought I'd try the ezibleed kit, but I'd rather be watching for bubbles and fresh fluid, with me saying when to push pedal etc. Thanks for your replies.
Thanks for your reply. I'm in North Birmingham, on the Walsall boarder. I need a good local garage, anybody got any ideas??
Thank you, excellent diagram. I'll check the socket and switch wiring tomorrow. I don't think the garage has altered them. They still look like the original wires, black, red , black and red. As it's 3 pin, I can't think of, or see a way they could be connected wrong. I've been googling to try and find out the resistance / volts / current etc of the brake switches, to maybe do a bench test on the circuits (if that makes sense, and I'm explaining it right, please remember I'm not very good at techy talk, but I can use an elec meter tester to read the volts/current). Luckily, I had the two old (original vw ) switches back off the garage. So once bled up and brake pressure is restored, if the dash warning light is still on, I could try fiting the old switches again. If the dash warning light is still on after that, then there's another fault, obviously. I'm hoping it's a faulty brake switch, it would seem there is alot of dodgy switches around. Does that seem like a good plan? Thank you 77westy, as I previously said to you at BF, I certainly live up to my user name, lol ;-)
Thank you all for the help and advice. Just to update, and taking on board your above advice. Brake switches, loosened under brake pedal pressure, and tightened, torqued to 14 lbs, now not leaking. - done Elec connectors cleaned out and refitted. - done Pedal still too soft but not too the floor. Brake warning light on all the time until the brake is pressed (maybe because there is more pressure, maybe a bad earth- like its wired the wrong way???) Visual look for obvious leaks at all brake pipes, backing plates, nipples etc Bleed nipple caps all have a bit of fluid in them, I think from where the garage bled the brakes. Then I ran out of time and was too flippin' cold. Next, remove drums and check slave cylinders. Bleed brakes osr, nsr, osf, nsf.........probably several times and try izzy's gravity method. and hope it's as easy as typing this !!! LOL
Ooops, sorry, my bad. The guy who I met in the dark, oooh err mrs, lol, has a user name very very similar to yours. I do appologise, I blame the getting so cold out side today , giving me brain freeze.
If you deffo don't have a leak anywhere I'd suggest parking it on a flat surface and wedging the brake pedal down for a day or so, then bleed it. As an aside, what sort of condition is the fluid coming out like....the bias valve on mine was filthy and took a lot of pumping to get clean? I don't have a servo...was your working ok before they decided to change the pads to fix a faulty switch?
another worthwhile check is to get someone to press hard on brake pedal a few times while you check the flexi hoses for leaking or expanding.
^^^^^ this, I've had it in the past where I've changed a cylinder and gone to bleed the brakes and got nowhere. Then finally finding out the flexi has collapsed internally , even though it was fine before. I dunno maybe loosing pressure for a while when doing some work can cause old flexis to collapse ???????? Just my experience Sent from my SM-J500FN using Tapatalk
I mentioned the hoses as after chasing my tail trying to sort a spongy brake pedal on the mgb, it turned out to be the rear flexi hose.
