Bleeding brakes idiot guide please.

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Babble, Feb 1, 2018.

  1. Hi, all, I've searched on here and googled.
    Does anyone know of an easy step by step idiot guide online to bleeding brakes ??

    I've changed the brake switches and can't get enough pressure, pedal too soft..
    I'm using an ezzibleed kit.
    Changed the switched because the brake lights didn't come on unless pedal pressed quite hard.

    done is order of back right, to left right, to left front then right front.

    1977 2.0l USA spec bus
    It's got a servo

    many thanks in advance :)
  2. Diddymen

    Diddymen Moderator

    are you sure there are no leaks, and ezy bleed is connected correctly?

    I used ezy bleed with no problems.

    Connect ezy bleed (with fluid in the bottle) to reservoir (with fluid in it), connect air supply from spare wheel (cant remember the pressure) .....go to back of bus.

    put hose over nipple, other end into a jam jar, and open bleed nipple .....repeat for all corners.

    If you still have a soft pedal there is still air in the system ......keep going again until it firms up.

    When I did mine, fluid came through, I carried on until no bubbles came out .....found pedal was soft, there was still air in there. I used another bottle to get rid of the last few bubbles (even though all the fluid before didn't have air in!)
    Babble likes this.
  3. Double post.
  4. ??? double post ???

  5. Thanks for the reply, mine is the ezibleed connected at bleed nipple, not the one that pushed pressure from the brake fluid reservoir. Maybe I should nip to halfords and get the pressure type.
    thank again.
  6. the one way valve type should be enough to do the job. It does help to have someone to pump the peddle for you, but the "one man kit" should in theory be enough.

    Start with furthest from the master cylinder and work back (depends on LHD or RHD van)
    Babble and snotty like this.
  7. Have you checked that there isn’t a leak? Rear wheel cylinders are common, look for fluid inside the boot, and the master cylinder could have an internal leak that you can’t see.
    Does the pedal go slowly to the floor if you keep pressure on it?
    With an Eezibleed attached to the fluid reservoir bleeding is easy, slacked the new brake light switches until fluid escapes and retighten, then go around the bleed nipples as you’ve done.
    Babble likes this.
  8. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Moderator

    Sometimes there is air right in the system and in that case I open all the bleed nipples put an hose and jar to catch the fluid on all nipples, top up the reservoir and leave it to run all day topping up the reservoir periodically.

    Then I get someone to sit in the van while I go to the offside rear wheel ( after tightening all nipples ) I loosen the nipple with the hose on it and tell the person to push the pedal to the floor and hold it there. Then I tighten the nipple and they let the pedal up. I do this about four times on each wheel working my way to the drivers wheel last. The person in the cab can top up the reser when they are sat there pumping
    Babble likes this.
  9. That’s^ what an Eezibleed does, it replaces the person pumping the pedal and topping up the reservoir.
  10. If any one is bored, here's the full story. I was at the back of the que when sense of humour was given out, I'm more of a factual type person.

    As Run DMC said "It goes a little something like this" (my best attempt at humour :-0 )

    A friend was following me and said when I'm slowing, the brake lights weren't coming on, only when I braked harder like coming to a full stop.
    We tested this by him flashing his head lights when I was braking, yeap slowing the brake lights not coming on.

    Decided I did'nt want to mess about with brakes my self.
    Took it to a garage, one and half hours drive each way (in hope of finding and using a good garage)

    They replaced the front pads, and both brake switches (from VW Heritage I think, but still repro ones.)

    Drove home ok, I think.........10 minutes to motorway and 10 minutes off the motorway to my house, so not much brake use.
    Parked bus up and not touched it since (that was November)

    Last week took the drivers seat out, and in the tooing and frowing trying to get the seat of the runners, the brake pedal was press, probably quite hard.
    Next day, big puddle of brake fluid under the master cylinder.
    Got under and had a look, yeap leaking fluid from the switch nearest the servo.
    Tightened it and leak has stopped.
    24mm socket delivered today and going to check it's torqued to 14lbs.
    Fluid reservoir is half full, so shouldn't have sucked air through.

    Bad thing was, garage said the dashboard brake warning light had come on, and they did'nt know why, so they just took the bulb out.
    I trusted there judgment, as I don't know any different and I'm not a mechanic.
    Googled it since and all over the internet that people just take bulb out or put tape on it.
    Also when I first got under to have a look the 3 prong elec switch connector was completely off. (the one that was leaking)
    I don't think it could have just fell off on the journey's 3 prongs and a tight fit!! or could it have???
    With the connector off, the brake lights still worked.

    Put the bulb back in the brake warning light and true enough it stays on, but the brake lights do work.
    If it's important???? I also have a high level 3rd brake light it the rear window.
    When I press the brake pedal, brake lights work and the warning light goes out.
    The brake light warning light lense fell apart, common problem.
    I've just done a group buy, for those that responded in my posts, of the lenses from, for 4 of us on T.L.B, delivered yesterday.

    So I'm hoping it's just low fluid pressure, and bleeding the brakes will solve the soft brake pedal and brake light warning light being on.

    Don't feel safe to drive it one and half hours back to the garage with no brake pressure, so I'm forced to try and fix it myself
    or get a recovery truck to take it to the garage.

    Oh the joys of classic motoring, I'm just trying to think instead, how much I enjoy driving it on a sunny day .

    Sorry if you fell asleep reading this, lol.
    PanZer and nicktuft like this.

  11. Thank you, it's a LHD, so start at the OSR, then NSR, the OSF, then NSF ?
    Sorry, thats why I originally asked for an idiots guide/thread/post, for all my silly/ easy questions (easy for most any way)
  12. Yep - I had trouble bleeding one of my rear cylinders after a rebuild because the piston had moved over the hole, so double check that you are getting clean fluid coming through the eezi bleed lines, and no bubbles. Do it once all the way round with a few good pumps to get the air out, and then repeat again as a double check. Should do the job.
    Babble likes this.

  13. Thank you :)
    Pedal doesn't go all the way to the floor, just alot further than it used to, then stops. So there is a bit of pressure there.
    If someone presses the brake pedal slightly, as I loosen and tighten the brake switches, would this help push air out through the switches?
    I've read about putting cling film over the reservoir too, to cause a vacuum as switches are loosened, is this a myth ???
    Thanks again, sorry if these are easy questions, as I said above, I'm not a mechanic...just basic knowledge.
    I'll go check the wheel cylinders, but I couldnt see anything leaking earlier today.
  14. Many thanks for the reply.
    I reckon use the ezibleed as it's got the none return valve, with me under neath watching for bubbles and clean fluid, and also get some to press the pedal.

    lol, the saying Eat Sleep Rave Repeat comes to Bleed, Look, Tighten, Repeat, :thumbsup:
  15. Great easy explanation for me to understand, many thanks :)
    nicktuft likes this.
  16. As they don’t know what they are doing I wouldn’t take it back to the same garage.
    If 3-pin switches have been fitted and connected correctly the warning light indicates a fault with one brake circuit and taking the bulb out isn’t the fix. Here’s the wiring diagram:
    PanZer, nicktuft, Moons and 2 others like this.
  17. Yes it would.
    That’s for changing the switches so no fluid is lost, not much anyway. Too late for that now.
    Babble likes this.
  18. Take the drums off and peel back the boots on the cylinders. If there’s a leak they’ll have fluid in them and you’ll need to adjust the rear brakes after you’ve checked for leaks.
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2018
    nicktuft and Babble like this.
  19. Where are you located babble?
    We may have a member near by who could pop round and help.
    PanZer, Babble and 77 Westy like this.
  20. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Moderator

    I know, but I have never had much success with them and it always leaves me wishing I had done it the other way!

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