taken off one of my cylinder heads to do the push rod tubes and noticed the top of the pistons and the bottom of the head was caked in carbon build up does this mean it was running rich or is this normal? I've cleaned it all off and it is looking much better the valves seem to be holding petrol back when I poured it in and the barrels dont look to be scored ....which I guess is a good thing I noticed there was a thin ring between head and barrel - should I replace this with a new one or refit? it looks fine last thing, should there be any seals under the washers for the head bolts (the ones inside the head under the rockers) as there didnt seem to be any is there any thing else I should be looking at before I refit the heads tomorrw? thanks
I was going to joke and say a new engine ... need to sort the MOT on mine so can start getting out now the sun has started to shine
If it were me, I'd replace the head shims with some the same thickness but between barrel/case. But only because less chance of a compression leak then, which yours doesn't look like it had. Perhaps it got used to potter about and never got a good thrash. Some people can't wait to change gear and stop the loud noises from the back.
OMG , I can't believe that ever ran, I think it will blow up if it gets used again unless every single part is needlessly removed photographed and put back in the exact same place with a touch of epoxy mastic paint
How thick are the shims? If thickys (say 1mm), may be that the head has previously been machined, so back they go, or your deck height will be to cock. I'm assuming this is a type 1? Give the heads a good wire brushing to get the carbon out. As you've come this far, I'd be tempted to take the valves out and regrind them (but you'll need a spring compressor). Then sort out your carbage. No seals under the head bolts (but there are under the rocker stand bolts).
yep, type 1 1600 the shims were prob about 0.5mm or so I was thinking about re lapping the valves ........but I poured some petrol over them and it sat there and didnt leak past, so was going to leave it despite what David thinks I do only want to do the minimum to the engine and get it in ASAP ha, ha very funny ....sneaks off to remove even more bits and take more pics no seals under the head bolt ....what stops the oil leaking through ....as there was a slight leak there - should I use some blue hylomar under the washers? didnt notice any seals under the rockers .....or leaks .....but if I've got seals in my kit they will be going on
Is it not wise to replace the exhaust valves while its apart ? They are only just over a tenner each from gsf if I remember correctly. It will cost more if the head of the valve falls off
That is quite unlikely to happen... plus you get warning signs before it happens... like tappet gaps closing up!! Diddymen, is this an engine you've been running?
Paul Weeding, no, the engine hadnt run for 4 years when I got it. I fitted a new starter and battery and it fired up straight away ran nice and smooth, no smoke no noises, theres no end float. I ran it for about 20min ....mostly on idle. Then took the motor out a few months later and not run it for the last 3 yrs. When I bought the van, the PO's said it had a new Vega engine in it, when I got it home I looked at the paper work and it had done about 50-60K since fitted by my reconing
I read somewhere that if doing head work on t1's then almost change the exhaust valves like you change your pants. Ie: if you can get to them change them lol
I'd remove them and check them for wear, but only replace them if they were worn out I'd say the sitting and lack of use is the likely cause then... especially if it had only done short runs or started up and idled on the drive... I've found with engines that sit, it can make them almost grow carbon inside!!
