Ball joints - replacement and links/ideas please.

Ok, so Bolly had her mot yesterday and due to the tester being a good egg i got a pass because he knows i'll do the work, i've got a wibbly wobbly ball joint which i'm assured isn't gonna cause immediate danger but needs doing sooner rather than later (so, no waiting for 11 months then) anyway zed initially made an offer of some exchange idea but it could prove a bit of a faff so we're unsure if that's gonna happen, what i'd like to do here is ask for any advice on the fitting of/how to guides/links to suppliers etc - all round hints on doing the job really - for those who don't know the ball joints on these vans aren't screw on and off or simple bolt on things like most modern cars - there's a lot of farting about by the looks of it (i'm not 100% sure myself) so if we keep this thread tidy we could sticky it to help people in future.
So if anyone has links or help i'd appreciate it.
Example - is this any good for me? My worn one is the lower nearside.
http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sho..._With_Ball_Joint_-OB-Lower_Near_Side-CB-.html

 

Actually ignore that link - that's for a beetle - i thought cool air did a bay one but can't find it. bigrich ?

 

Interested in this also I have a rear and front to change this year I think they were advisors last year

 

If you are talking trailing arms then take a look on transporterhaus dot de where there is a really good tutorial on fitting dropped spindles.

The procedure is the same whether you are only renewing trailing arms or going the whole hog with (very expensive) dropped spindles on the route to lowering your bus.

I used it as inspiration last year wheen I did all 4 trailing arms for the same MOT reason as yourself. I did all 4 because its is a load of work to do just 1 and then find you need to do the others 12 months latter,, and if it is an upper trailing arm you will need to get the camber checked and reset so it would be wise too at least do both upper trailing arms at the same time.

I used lemforder BJ's which is what VAG use today on their cars.

Good luck with the job - its easily doable.

 

http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sho.../T2_68-79_Front_Ball_Joint_-_Top_Quality.html


http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sho...ioned_Torsion_Arm_-OB-upper_Off_Side-CB-.html


http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sho...oned_Torsion_Arm_-OB-lower_Near_Side-CB-.html

 

sailorbill trailing arms? is that the collective term for the whole thing the ball joint is fastened to? it says torsion arm on silvers link.
Silver so i need the 3rd one on your link if i do the exchange or the 1st if i can get it pressed?

 

Yep lower near side complete arm and joint. Or if you want to do it long hand, strip the arm, get the old one pressed out and the new one pressed in, then refit the arm. Buy the individual ball joint, all 4 are the same.

 

Thanks Silver what i'm looking for if anyone has the time or a link etc is a how to on pulling this arm thing out, the what to expect things that happen - an all in idiots guide really, i'm wondering if i can get someone with a press or by the time the faffing has been done the cool air exchange thing is worth the less hassle? i can see the ball joints are cheapish but by the time i've run round found a garage with a press, wasted the time going/chatting/fuel on the journey etc it seems a damn sight easier to just fit a new one.

 

I went the cool air way ordered them took old ones off put new ones on send old ones back, the complete arms are quite easy to tack off, I believe I followed Haynes manual, once you have removed the wheels, brakes to one side undo the grub screw and bang them out with a rubber mallet, can't remember top or bottom I re moved the bump stop so they come off easier, and give everything a good grease when you put it back together,
Steve,

Have fun

 

The only hard bit will be separating the ball joint from the hub if you don't have the tools.
Remove shock
Disconnect ARB from arm. You might be able to re-use the fixing, or not. If you have to replace try and just use the clip from the kit as the rest is a bit pants.
Unclip brake pipe from fitting but leave all connected.
Separate both ball joints from hub/steering knuckle, noting position of camber adjuster for reassembly.
Catch the lot and prop it up out the way on an upturned bucket or similar
Undo pinch bolt holding bottom arm onto the leaf springs
Pull the arm out.
Grinder with cutting dic - cut round the flange on the ball joint almost through an lumphammer/cold chisel the remains off. This is so a special tool isn't need to support it through the two slots and any old garage will be able to press it out supporting with a simple collet.
Take to garage - £5-£10 will have it out and new one in - make sure they know to line up the slots a la haynes.
Put it all back together.
Straightforward?
Grease the beam where you removed the arm and while you're at it grease the rest too.

 

ok so if i go down the route of buying a cool air one plus any associated gubbins we could techenders it? savings over the faffing vs ready done are about £20/25? not even 50 miles of fuel in mine.......

 

I'll watch from a deck chair.

 

that's cool, you know me, i can do it but feel better questioning observers as i'm quite self doubting sometimes.

 

this guy makes it look easy
removal


prepare


replace

 

Just to be sure - are you sure the MOT guy didn't say "you've got slack balls?"

 

rickyrooo1 I've got a scissor-type ball joint separator for removing the ball joint from the hub if you need to borrow it. That's the type that's recommended for our buses, rather than the one you strike with a hammer.

 

Would that be like the small one in this pic for track rod ends? You need the big one for ball joints...

 

No, it looks like the big one in your picture.

 

Just the ticket then.
Forgot you were a petrol head...