Another engine drop thread

I’d replace it.


With a flywheel and a proper gearbox.

 

Nothing wrong with an auto box. Absolutely love mine. Would be nice if it had another gear or two but I’d still have that over manual.

 

What, after you kindly let me have some bolts!
It’s such an unrefined and basic bit of metal, I’m tempted to find a way to reuse it, after a bit of work on the damaged hole.

 

My comment was tongue in cheek, if I had a bus with an auto box I’d keep it, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to find one.
I don’t remember how I came across those bolts, they must have been attached to an engine or crankshaft I had but I’ve never had an auto or even a flexplate. You might be able to spot face it to clean up the bolt recess and reuse it but if you can get another one, I’d replace it. Avoid using a washer if possible. The locating pin does nothing, the bolts are not equally spaced so you can’t mis-index the flexplate.

 

If I’m not mistaken, Bentley bizarrely suggests that the position of the plate is marked to ensure re-fitting in same position.

 

That is a pity, you could have simply used a slightly larger diameter drill to drill out the head...
At the worst, it would have just lightly chamfered the hole in the drive plate as the head popped off...

 

It does, but you can’t fit it incorrectly because the bolt holes wouldn’t line up.

 

I got the appropriate size drill from Presto, who used to be a big manufacturer in Sheffield and a spare off eBay…. even using cutting oil neither made a significant “dent” in the head…..the only thing that touched it was a little orange Dremell grinding wheel.

 

I can understand that.. its often the case that the average handheld electric drill cant spin slow enough with enough torque under the downward pressure you need to get it to bite rather than spin and work harden the surface.
Sometimes starting off with a smaller drill can get it all going.
Another weapon I have used are the 6mm tungsten carbide burrs that fit a dremel.. when wound up to a scary speed and held very firmly, they can cut quite fast..

But its a good idea to go for the kind of drill bit that costs the same for single drill bit as you pay for a set in B&Q .. the Dormer bits I have seem sharp after lots of work.

 

Cleaned up the damaged drive plate, finished putting engine together and put engine in, well it’s supported by the engine bar and the bottom 2 bolts connecting the engine to the auto box are in.
Starter/alternator and rest can wait for another day.

 

Question…. engine drive plate needs connecting to the torque converter with the three little bolts…..I can turn engine to make drive plate appear in the small access hole, but how do I get the holes in the two holes to align?
There has to be a way …. Haven’t had time to look yet, but should I have done something before I fitted the engine?

….. the cutouts in the auto gearbox /bellhousing …. there lies the answer?

 

IIRC you should be able to turn the torque converter through the same hole.

 

Just done an edit to my post….it had been bothering me on my drives up and down the motorway this week …. not sure you can see anything but the drive plate, but the torque converter end of the gearbox is mainly holes, so that should help with access/ alignment.

 

Of course! My memory isn't good after all and it must be 10+ years since I did this.

 

Yes that's how to do it. It can be turned by hand, no tools needed.

 

So right, after a holiday in the sun and a bad dose of “ something “, I’m back on the case.
Gone to turn engine to line up a bolt hole in the drive plate with the cut out in the case, so that I can connect the drive plate to the torque converter and it won’t turn over…..removed the plugs still no success…. It’s as tight as a tight thing.
Turned freely setting the valves before I slotted engine in ….. before I take the engine out, is there something simple that I’ve done/not done/ done wrong?

 

Engine out and turns freely…. as far as I can see, the drive plate just connects to the torque converter with 3 bolts and the raised boss in the centre of the torque converter appears to be just a locator when fitting the engine.
I’m at a loss to work out why the engine was stuck solid when the engine and gearbox were offered together, even before the 3 retaining bolts were fitted, as the torque converter spins freely.
I cleaned up the centre hole in the drive plate, but I’m wondering if the damage could cause the problem.
Suggestions would be appreciated…unfortunately, yet more visitors are descending on us tomorrow, so work will grind to a halt for another week or so!

 

You did take gearbox out of park and into neutral.

 

It’s in neutral…. but handbrake is on.
@Razzyh I’ve messaged @Zed , think he must have looked at the thread while I was (slowly) typing him a pm.

 

Hopefully it’s a case of handbrake being on. Are your wheels in the air too?

Can’t remember but suspect mine were when fitting engine to gearbox.