Keen for us to have a bit of heat in the van I’m installing a propex heater under the driver’s seat. I made up a little platform for it to sit on in the metal folder: Then very tentatively cut a hole in the driver’s cubby space to allow the propex to drop into the void: I packed out the platform with some sections of 20mm and 40mm box section so that the heater sits level: And then finally cut the holes into the wheel arch for the inlet and exhaust pipes. I’ll be fitting rubber grommets to stop water getting through:
I’ve stripped down all of the running gear. Thankfully most of it is in good nick. I’ll need a new drag link, and one ball joint, and I’ll renew all the rubber boots as they’ve seen better days and the bolts. Ready to go off to the shot blasters: All blasted and looking like new (shot blasting is such a time saver!) And back down the workshop for a coat of zinc primer. Very Satisfying!
Van underside all prepped and ready for its final coat of epoxy mastic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Underside and rear suspension components all epoxy mastic’d tonight! Really happy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well James whilst I have spent hours on the web agonising about paint finishes for Lottie, you as ever have been striding forward making excellent progress and thankfully sharing the journey. I recall you mentioned using Bilt-Hamber Epoxy Mastic and I have been looking for data sheets as I want to avoid anything with Isocyanides and I want to spray all the running gear/beam prepped so far with Bonda. My reading to date for all the Epoxy products (bar Rustbuster) suggests brushing and HP airless spraying? I also would like to consider an epoxy primer for the bodywork before finishing with cellulose or possibly Jawel 2K non iso. I would be grateful for any advice you might have. I will also post a separate thread to gather some more thoughts and hopefully help share the knowledge. Best regards Martin
Just seen this, sorry I replied to your other thread! On spraying epoxy I think I originally emailed Bilt Hamber to ask them as the data sheets didn’t explicitly mention it. I usually thin around 15% to get it to flow nicely. That’s spraying with a 1.8 fluid tip through a devilbiss pri pro gun (HVLP). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Many thanks James, I will try some for the running gear and perhaps their Flat Face for the inside to test before progressing to the outside. Have you decided what system you will use for the body?
I’m going back to bare metal then epoxy, high build primer and 2K top coat (lechlar I believe is what my local paint suppliers stock). Going back to bare metal as I want to make sure I’ve not missed anything as filler seems to have been used a lot on it in the past. It’s a bit of a mine field when it comes to paint isn’t it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There is a guest author writing the blog today, my ineffable wife. Hey guys, I’m Max, Jim’s wife and seeing as I spent the day doing the majority of the work ;-) Jim asked me to write the blog this week. So initially yesterday, Jim spent the day masking up the majority of the underside of the van ready to get the seam sealer out to make her water tight. Today I finished masking up the rest of the underside. The only thing that got me through laying on a cold, dirty workshop floor with a strategically placed torch, was spicy salami sticks and a great playlist! Check out David Ramirez and Nathaniel Rateliffe. Once we got all the underside taped off after a looooong time, mostly due to me checking if I needed to do a certain section and making awesome geometric shapes to fit some particularly awkward metal, we began the seam sealing. Thank fully Jim bought me a new special tool. An air compressed seam sealant gun. I felt like Linda Hamilton in The Terminator (without a mullet thankfully). We used tiger seal and a Clarke pneumatic caulking gun. Once we got the pressure adjusted right, I began sealing while Jim hung back for about 10 mins so he could smooth it off. I managed to seal very quickly due to the brilliant gun and then helped smooth off the sealant with a finger dab into paint thinner, making sure it’s flat and evenly spread before peeling off the tape to leave a gorgeous line. You know that sunburn peeling feeling of relief? Yep, that!!!!!! I even went over some of Jim’s work, I must have got far too into it but the MOT guys that will look at the underside will completely appreciate the factory fresh look we achieved. We managed to get the cab floor completely done and the rest will be done by mid week next week. That’s it for now from me, I need red wine and a lie down after spending nearly an hour in the bath scrubbing seam sealant off my hands. GLAMOUR. Peace and love folks!
That looks absolutely fabulous - what a great team effort. I suspect that’s better than when it left the factory. Wine was well deserved. Stirlingmoz
Incredible attention to detail you two are doing brilliant work and probably giving Iris a longer second lease than the original factory expectation. Thanks for the paint tips.
Started gathering all the components I’ll need to get Iris back on her wheels soon so treated her to a full set of Koni Shocks. Fully adjustable and with a lifetime warranty, they should be the only shocks I’ll ever need. Plus they look the balls. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Underside now all seam sealed. Possibly a bit thick in places but better than not having enough. Next to prep the wheel arches for 2 coats of tinted raptor stonechip for extra protection.
