2.0l type 4 fi starting problem

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by gratboyslim, Feb 13, 2020.

  1. Hi everyone
    After some advice. My bus was running perfectly, but did a mini service and when I put in a new set of points I noticed the distributor had lots of play up and down in the shaft. I sent it away to be rebuilt and it came back looking better than new. The distributor clamp was marked and put back as it was. Since reinstalling it won’t start. It turns over but no firing. I have suffered with bad earthing before affecting the performance of the fi, but it always started on the button. before I get in a loop of changing things and testing the fi components, wondered if anyone had any expert advice? It’s doing my head in!
     
  2. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    Set the points , they could be to far open , the timing will be different to the mark now too
     
  3. Check the dizzy is seated properly and the points are set right, you may need to twist the dizzy as its turning over until you get it right.

    Most likely it is the dizzy as that's what is different

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
     
  4. Perfect, thank you! The points are perfect gapped as I took it back out for the umpteenth time and cleaned them to make sure they hadn’t got grease on them. I’ll do the static timing and see if that is enough to get it fired up. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it has been running through my head since getting it rebuilt!
     
  5. Thanks pkrboo

    yes, that is what was doing my head in. I didn’t want to start changing things that were ok before, but I’ll have a play and see if I can do the timing.
     
  6. Have you Put the dizzy back in 180 degrees wrong way around?

    Do you get a spark?
     
  7. Hi Razzyh

    tbh I don’t know. I didn’t take a photo of the rotor arm in relation to the notch on the base and I can’t find a photo online of where it should be. It did occur to me that the person who rebuilt it could have put it 180 degrees out. The rest of it is amazing and better than new, but I was hoping to put it in exactly as it came out and fire up again.

    I haven’t checked for a spark, but all that was next on the list to start trouble shooting. It’s difficult to do tests on the fi your own as most need to watch things when turning over.
     
  8. Take a picture of it now, should be able to tell from the vac can position

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  9. I think you can only put them in 180 wrong of you take the drive gear out as well and put it back in on the wrong tdc.

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
     
  10. The clamp was marked and installed as it was. My only thought was maybe the notched base had been put on wrong?
     

    Attached Files:

  11. I know nothing. I never really had an issue and as it electronic it never came out. But read on here lots have done it the wrong way round.
     
  12. Cheers guys for the advice. I installed it last Saturday and it’s been piddling me off all week!
     
  13. Double check your on TDC for No1 not No3 then keep the arm still and spin the body to the right place.. for the lead for No1 to match.. then make sure all the leads are in the right order..I've double checked a few times and still only got 1, 4, 3, 2 right after a couple of goes.. getting clockwise wrong!... must have been tired

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  14. If you turned the engine at all while distributor was out the gears could be in a different place too.. as long as you don't mind where it's pointing it doesn't matter as long as you line the cap up wherever it's pointing when No1 is ready

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  15. On my old FI engine the vac can was on the right hand side approx 2pm position. Might be worth rotating it a good 90degrees counter clockwise

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  16. Thanks all, been having a play tonight. I think it’s the same position as before as I found an early photo. I have removed the spark plugs tonight except number 2 which looks a mare to get to. All the gaps were a bit big, so putting new ones in. If it’s the correct Tdc then the rotor is pointing to the mark on the dizzy. I have a mini endoscope for my phone to confirm Tdc so will have a play with that tomorrow and static time it and see if I get any further forward.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Cheers Deefer, didn’t move anything whilst it was out. Literally undid the 13mm nut on the clamp, lifted it out and sent it for rebuild. Put it back in with the same clamp position and now it doesn’t start. Should have been so simple.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor


    The clamp will have been removed for refurbishment, have you got the tine set at tdc in number one ?
     
  19. Hi Davidoft

    yes they removed the clamp but marked the distributor body and clamp with a punch and lined it back up. In theory it should be the same as it came off which is why I’m confused. I’ll confirm that it’s Tdc with the endoscope and set it statically at the weekend. Will keep you posted.
     
    davidoft likes this.
  20. Dont forget there are two TDC in a cycle.. dont need to endoscope it just make sure pulley mark is on 0 and both rockers are loose, on the other TDC they're not, if the rocker gaps are right.. but it was running before so should be close.

    Make sure all the leads are right and you're actually getting a spark .. might not even be a timing issue..

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
     

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