2.0l type 4 fi starting problem

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by gratboyslim, Feb 13, 2020.

  1. Everything looks right so far, but there is a YouTube video showing how to find Tdc with an endoscope so will run through that first so I know the pulley marks are right. So if I’m not getting a spark, what is that likely to be? Coil given up coincidentally or something in the fi system? Double relay?


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  2. Be carefull with getting stuff stuck/squashed in the chamber.. if you want spot on TDC you need something to stop the piston before TDC (an old spark plug with the with a bolt stuck in the end .. apparently!.. never done this I had the engine apart so easy..), spin it backwards and it'll stop the other side of TDC and it's exactly half way between..

    But the groove on the pulley should be close.

    If you've got the little inspection hole on the housing there is also a little mark on the back of the pulley you can check against the case line

    [​IMG]

    Front of fan housing missing but you can see I've painted it green in the picture above and it lines up with a groove inside the housing.

    No spark.. ? Wiring wrong/points gap/Coil dodgy / condenser...



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    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020
  3. Cheers man

    I’ll do some more investigation tomorrow in the light.

    I left the cap attached to the car and only sent off the dizzy body, so the only thing I disconnected was the feed to the condenser. I put another new condenser on the other night and checked the points gap again and all fine. It either has to be timing or I’m not getting a spark, but why it should suddenly give up the ghost is what has got me stumped. I don’t know enough about the fi system to know if anything could stop the ignition working. Type 1 engines I’m fine with but I’m still learning the t4!


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  4. Don't know about FI but can't see why that'd effect sparks.. temperamental buggers these engines sometimes... always been my fault in the end with issues though

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  5. Always go back to the last job you did, ie; in this case distributor!
    Don’t start messing with other stuff till you’re certain that’s ok.
    There’s a good chance you’ve got hydraulic tappets so they’ll feel tight anyway and not necessarily a good indication of TDC.
     
    Deefer66 likes this.
  6. If its hydraulic make sure intake rocker is the one closing as you're comming round to TDC..


    ...And then go find the little carbon contact in the top of the distributor cap has fallen out of the spring at some point and shout at the engine in the middle of a campsite...

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    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020
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  7. Thank you! Yes my thoughts exactly and yes I do have hydraulic tappets!
    Yes that’s why it doesn’t make any sense as the dizzy is a mechanical device. There is a vid on samba that says how to find tdc, so I’ll try that to make sure the notched part has been put back on the right orientation. That’s all I can think of that’s potentially different.


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  8. Hello! Storm Dennis has made it yet more hassle, but I think I’ve found tdc and it’s 180 out. Found TDC with the endoscope as per samba and taking the rocker off.

    thanks for all the advice, so guess I need to see if I can rotate the notched drive on the dizzy or the engine....

    At least it looks more likely it was the dizzy rebuild than a new problem. Unless the engine was always 180 out and now the dizzy is correct.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Doesn’t actually matter if it’s 180 out as long as you get the leads in the right places
     
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  10. It will bug my ocd tendencies if I know it’s not right
    Once it stops piddling down I might do a lead swap and see if we are back in business.


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    paradox likes this.
  11. It’s alive! Thanks all for your help. Turned dizzy drive 180 degrees and adjusted timing. Just took for a test drive and all’s good
     
    Cov1987, Deefer66, pkrboo and 2 others like this.
  12. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    If you feel the distributor it as it goes down onto the drive shaft, it goes distinctly further down when its the right way round.
    Aa you found, it will go down the hole and lock 180 degrees out , but sit a tiny bit high, especially if the tips of the drive dog on the distributor are a bit rounded off with age. Its a lot harder to get it right with a rubber new D ring sealing the drive shaft as its stiffness can mask the feel of the drive engaging .

    Now you have it running, set the timing. It wont necessarily be right , because the distributor rotates 1 degree for every 2 degrees of crank rotation, a smidge of error in bolting down the distributor is doubled in the engine timing.
    The marked up distributor and clamp is a good get you going idea, and you can drive with it but in the end it needs checking..
     
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  13. Razzyh

    Razzyh Supporter

    Post number 6 (+ lots of other relevant advice from others) gave you the answer

    Could have saved yourself a whole heap of trouble
     
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  14. Haha

    Yes you are probably right, but I put the dizzy in exactly as it came out, but the person who rebuilt it put the drive 180 degrees different. At least it was a learning experience!

    Cheers for all your help again


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