1978 Kombi Type 2

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Tim Murphy, Apr 14, 2023.

  1. Is the 55 amp unit sufficient for me, or do i need go to the uprated 70 amp. Thanks
     
  2. I have not done much to the bus lately, as i am currently working on a 67 squareback thats fairly crusty. But I needed to move the bus away from the workshop. On startup which I knew was ropey enough, as i dont want to start any work on it before finishing the other. But its got an electronic ignition, not sure of the make. Plug leads on all correctly, but distributor appears to be 180 degrees out, but the leads moved to suit this. When i was checking to see which plugs were firing or not, I noticed an odd thing. When i removed plug lead number 1, it seemed to run better, which I thought it should have been worse.

    Like I say, I just needed to move it, so after thats was done, I went back to the squareback. Did any one ever notice anything similar ay any time, or does electronic ignition have any querks that I am not familiar, as i have always run stock setups on all my vehicles.
    Thanks.
     
  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I don't think you need 70A alternator.
    Maybe it was running on 3 and removing no.1 it ran on 2.
     
    Tim Murphy likes this.
  4. Thanks.
    Not sure about what it was running when I pulled the lead. I'm going out now to get to the bottom of it, purely out of curiosity.
     
  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Because of the firing order and general design of the manifolds feeding 2 cylinders that fire consecutively there can be a certain amount of charge stealing leading to most of the work (at idle) being done by 2 and 4. It's worse with more overlap and people add a balance pipe to even it out a bit, but a stocker should be able to idle smoothly if it's set up ok with no air leaks. Try pulling the lead off no.3 and see if you get the same result as no. 1?
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2023
  6. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    55amp is fine but you'll need the end cover and boot for the cooling. If you're stuck I have a good alternator with a not so good end cover, but postage from France would not be cheap.
     
  7. I see what you mean by expensive posting from France. Ouch. Its probably going to cost me less by buying a new unit here in Ireland, but thanks for the offer
     
    77 Westy likes this.
  8. Just curious to know if anyone has any advice on a potential conversion to upright cooling for a type 4 engine using this conversion kit. https://www.csp-shop.com/en/engine/upright-conversion-csp-198-230-400-13261a.html
    I have had little or no luck this side of the pond. And i have been quoted nearly a 100 euro a pop for single items, used from europe. Looks like I might be edging towards making some...
     
  9. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Just curious to know why you would want to do that?
     
  10. Because at the moment I am not having much success in getting the proper bay tinware
     
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  11. If I have to go down the route of making my own pieces, would I be better off using 1mm aluminium in stead of mild steel sheeting for ease of workability. I think it would probably be an easier medium to work with.
     
  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Tim, this stuff is not that hard to find, you shouldn't have to make anything.
    Be patient, build it like it should be, the fan conversion will just make it more difficult.
    As for shaping ali sheet, I think steel would be 100x easier.
     
    Tim Murphy likes this.
  13. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

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  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Over-priced filthy rusty junk from the photos! OK for the odd desperado last piece scenario I suppose.
    £40-50 a piece x 40 odd pieces of junk = £ far too much, you could find a complete knackered engine on ebay for less with better tinware?
    Or just be patient, put wanted advert up here, peruse ebay and collect nice pieces. Occasionally even these days I see bargain complete(ish) sets.
     
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  15. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    I cant remember the guy's name, maybe Paul L who lists lots of tinware on ebay and also sells parts on here.
     
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  16. It may not be hard to find in the UK, but I have had no luck at all in Ireland. One guy in NL wants 75 euro for a single piece. Patience is not a problem because I am currently working on a vw variant, so it will be a few months before I need anything. But i am hoping to make some small bit of progress on the parts by then
     
    Zed likes this.
  17. I am waiting on a reply from Avery's. But i think they are US based which will double the item
    costs to Ireland what with the tarrifs.
     
  18. I have been contacted by a guy who says he has all the pieces I need. Just to make sure I am asking for the correct parts, can some of you knowledgeable folk guide me if this is the correct pic to send him. Thanks, Tim


    tinware.png
     
  19. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    From a distant memory, part no's 4 and 24 are for a fuel injection motor.
     
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  20. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    20 and 21 are only for US spec exhaust.
     
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