Yes, unless you'd prefer to do it in the kitchen, then but the plug back You won't get it all out because of the angle it's at. There are also some tins above the pushrods that might be easier to remove now than later.
Don’t know if it applies to you but my oil temp sender is in the drain plug hole. You don’t want to risk cracking it.
So I think I'll finish there today I have just one last gear box bolt to undo and the bottom 4. I had one little eek moment when I undid the fuel line into the right had side and was prepared for it. I have just realised I haven't really worked out the logistics of moving the engine I have a curb. Haha
Make yourself a ramp or use the jack and blocks of wood to lift it up then slide it across and put the jack under again . With a T1 engine once you take the ancilliaries off it, its light enough to lift one side up, move it and go to the other side and lift it up and so walk it along. T4s are heavier but not a lot. Or put it on a bit of ply and push it with your feet. With my T1 I have lifted the long block off a trolley by myself into the back of a Peugeot 307SW.. which has a really low, level surface to slide things onto inside the car. Like putting things in the slider on a bus.
I've managed to lift a t1 engine on and off trolley jack on my own in the past, really struggled recently with our t4 engine and 2 people. Sure that's entirely due to the extra weight of the t4, not the intervening 10 years I thought there was mention above that this was an auto? Or was that just my imagination? If so then it's much easier than a manual as no clutch to align, and don't have to pull it back nearly as far to separate before dropping engine down.
If it’s an auto remember to undo the 3 bolts that hold the engine drive plate to the torque converter
Sadly for me it's got a manual. I'm at the point of dropping it out, I think I will wait until I have a replacement camshaft in hand before hand so I am ready to go, then if anything else is damaged replace as necessary for to limited fund at this point
Is it out yet? Take the heads off at least and also pull the cylinders off. Then stop. At that point, which is really easy to get to, you'll pretty much know where you're at and what you're in for.
If you’re doing it on a budget and find you can get away with just a new camshaft make sure you fit new followers also. Otherwise the new cam will be scrap again in no time.
Can someone again really sorry for my lack of knowledge explain. I understand that the camshaft rotates the lobes push into the lifters, I understand that my lobe for 1 and 3 is damaged, what I dont understand is how are the lifters damaged? Also what is the difference between hydraulic and mechanical ones
Imagine the cam was once slippery and rubbed against another slippery thing( cam follower). Now make one of those things out of 80 grit sand paper and rub it against the other at 2000rpm
If you strip the heads barrels, fan housing, alternator etc off you can life the case on your own, drain the oil before you take the engine out
The thing is with the cam and the lifters is that when the engine is first run, there has to be a period of fast running (20 mins at 2000 rpm .. scary )..when everything like the cam surface and the lifters are first run against each other and effectively polish each other smooth with loads of oil around thrown up by the crank. People have had failures because they had to stop the engine after a few minutes of break in for some problem....q If you dont do this right, then the lifters or the cam can wear fast.... Once lifters or cam have worn into each other then they mostly become an inseparable set. You might get away with repeating this break in changing only lifters or cam, maybe not. It may well be that your cam failed because your new lifters caused it to start wearing..
I ran into a lovely old chap called Mike at a couple of shows a few years back, he parked up on the spot next to me at Biggar, he was up touring the Highlands. We got to talking, as you do. He said he'd had VWs all his life including an aircooled T25 with hydraulic lifters. He told me how they went noisy regularly on a well used vehicles, he swore his VW mechanic could eventually change them by feel alone, he got so good at changing them for his customers.
Did you purchase a copy of the Tom Wilson book I suggested earlier in the thread? This book is a good learning tool for what you are doing, also, somewhere on here is a link to Jake Raby's Type 4 strip down and rebuild dvd, again essential viewing.