Wood repairs on a Devon interior.

Discussion in 'Camper Conversions' started by brothernumberone, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Hello all. I've just got an old Moonraker interior, not the later chipboard type, but the early 70's ply sort. The wood seems to be ply with a veneer. It's damaged in a few places.Is it possible to replace it, is it the sort of job someone with zero woodworking skills can do, and lastly, what sort of varnish should I use? Is it possible to get a nice smooth finish without brush marks?
    Buddy Hawks and CollyP like this.
  2. :TTIWWP:

    (I've never used that before :) )
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  3. Is it a real wood veneer or laminate? Post some pics and I can have a look.
  4. Here's a few pics. There's a small amount of water damage from a leaking tailgate seal which had cracked the veneer.


    Buddy Hawks likes this.
  5. You can remove and re-vanish it quite easily. Just be careful on the veneers as it'll only be around a mill thick and very easy to go through the wood will be fine and you can give it a bit more pressure. Treat it like sanding body work down. I would start with around a 100 grit to remove the bulk till it starts breaking through to wood then move on to 180 grit. Maybe polish it of with 240. You'll need to do it by hand with a block and watch edges as that's where you'll burn through first.

    As far as the veneer goes tricky one without seeing it but it won't be the easiest job, just time consuming.
    I would look at removing as much as I can with a scraper and chisel then sand the last bits of with sand paper.

    Then you'll need to get the veneer cut it roughly to shape and glue it on, will be tricky where you have to but an edge up. Use contact adhesive wait for it to dry then you can lay batons on it to position the veneer but dinMt allow to touch you only get one chance. Start at the edge you need perfect and roll it on from there removing batons as you go. Then you can trim all the edges after.

    Vanishing it, I was always taught to lay it in lay it off. Make sense? Never did to me but basic terms not too thick on them remove excess from brush and try to remove any excess of wood! Never been a great painter spraying is much easier. But you can't spray vanish.

    Hope it helps don't think I've missed much!!

    I'm sure others will have different methods but without seeing it this is how I could look at attacking it.
  6. Looking again some bits might strip down so your left with oak and ply, in that case it'll be easier. Depends on glue strengths and pins ect.

    Measure the ply sizes before trying to strip it and then you can cut it as near to the edge as you can then you can just split it ply layers off till your left with near wood and you can par the last bit off.

    Then rebuild it as it came apart.
  7. Brilliant, thanks for that. Can you flat varnish like paint, build it up then wet and dry it to give a smooth finish?
  8. Yes you'll need to so it keys, not too fine, but depends on sheen you use. As I say vanish isn't my full forte, but the higher the gloss the more the scratches show so the high grade it needs sanding.
    We use 30% sheen lacquer on our cabinets and go up to 150 grit before lacquer and 240 grit between coats.

    Best advise is dust free atmosphere and blow off with air and a brush before painting.
  9. Oh and equal running or you'll have colour changes in the wood. Watch the edges again as that's where it'll happen, block again. We use a sponge block to rub down with.
  10. yes....that's how you get a nice finish....buy some Owatrol to 'wet' the varnish....thin coat, let it dry, flat it back, thin coat, let it dry, flat it back etc.etc.
    sjhjoinery likes this.
  11. Is that the stuff they put in to stop brush marks too? I know there's stuff they use when painting boats to help it float as such so you don't see brush marks?
  12. that's the stuff...but they also use it to spray the steel hulls inside as a rust inhibitor
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  13. Thanks for all the advice, I'll post up some pics when I do it.
    sjhjoinery likes this.
  14. How did you get on?
  15. I haven't started yet. I think I might try and stick the veneer back down at the moment.
    The problem is that the ply behind the veneer has started to seperate, and I don't have the time(or skills) at the mo to sort it. I'd like to learn and come back to it later.
    You can see in this pic how it's going aong the bottom edge, I think i'd have to replace that whole front section of veneer.

    You can see here where the water has been getting past the hatch seal and running down the unit. What varnish should I use? I went to buy some the other day and there is 'clear', 'light oak', 'medium oak', 'dark oak' etc. I'm assuming the veneer is oak?
  16. looking at the pics, if the underlying ply is delaminating/warped/swollen from water damage I wouldn't bother trying to re veneer/laquer....I'd make a new front...ply is peanuts, and it will take you more time to refurb than renew....another option would be to strip it down to the carcase (doors/ hinges off) and get busy with a proper belt sander
    as for which varnish, you're aiming to colour match a new veneer to an old, from a different source....the only way to do this would be trial and error on some test pieces...
    the first coat of varnish gives you the biggest colour change....subsequent coats just add sheen/depth
    brothernumberone likes this.
  17. Was going to say it's oak faced ply rather than veneer stuck on after?
  18. Ah, I thought a veneer was the thin layer of wood on top of the ply? I think I remember someone saying that early Devon units were oak faced ply/veneer or whatever? I guess it's important to match the grain and color?
  19. Most oak available is American Oak, I used quite a lot in my interior but it's not so warm coloured as proper English oak though possibly that's due to time passing by. I think you'll have a job matching it, the good bits you show look very nice and warm. :)
    brothernumberone likes this.

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