Right - i`ve been a numpty. I`ve got an prototype bay style wiper switch on the steering wheel column. the one thats like rocking horse poo and costs loads to replace. anyway its stopped working - well stuck in position. its never worked in the slow setting and i think its welded its self in place while i have been replacing the deformation panel. anyhow. its done now! i`ve got a dash switch for a temp fix but i`ve no idea how to wire the bugger in or what each connection on the switch is for. Anyone got any tips?! I`ve got a spare hole on the dash for the switch so thats no bother. also as a side note can i get a replacement indicator stalk and cover to fit so i can take off the now completely duff washer switch which the current one bolts to? thanks!
Firstly if you fused the switch your dashboard wiring is a fire hazard and that needs looking at first. It should have just blown a fuse. Dont throw out the old switch .. I have bits of an old switch which has broken plastic but a set of working contacts and springs. The original wiring to the switch 1. Connects 12 volts to motor fast in fast position. 2. Connects 12 volts to motor slow in slow position 3. Connects the park power output to motor slow to park the mechanism. One way is to use two two way switches. One does fast/slow, the other does park/run. If all you want is slow and park then you can use a two way switch. If you want fast/ slow you need another switch. SW1 is fast/slow SW2 is run/park You can leave out SW1 if you only want slow, then wire black to the SW2 centre contact. And insulate the black/ yellow.. If it was running fast when you select park it will try and run fast to park. It might overrun and keep going . If so select slow. Bits...
i`m not 100% sure its fused just that it was stuck solid in one location. I`ll take it apart and have a look. I gave it a bit of welly to see if i could move it and it freed up but defo doesnt work now. I assumed the welding i`ve been doing had an effect thinking i must have knocked it into position. really appreciate the pics and info above!
I would take your existing switch to pieces - straightforward enough if you can get the "lid" off - and have a look inside. Fixing it up much better than bodging up with additional switches.
took the switch to pieces - its cooked. the slower wipe position never worked properly and, i think whats happened is, i`ve knocked it into the slower position and while its been sat for a few months (new engine/ welding/ general faffage) , its been shorting a bit and made it worse. Luckily the wiper motor still works. the power to the wiper seems to be on constantly even when the ignitions off - i assumed it would normally be switched? might have to look into that. the bus is a basterdised shed BTW - so god knows whats going on in the spaghetti mess under the dash. I`ve got a switch coming from lasty (thanks!) so hopefully i can compile a good one out of the 2 and not have to do the dash switch option.
Yes, the power to the wipers should come from a fuse fed from the ignition switch run position. The wipers should run until they park if wired properly with the switch in the park position. I'm glad @Lasty had another switch - I had one from him which I have used because if you look closely at my picture, you can see the cable tie where the lever was tearing itself out of the moving block that carries the spring loaded switch contact that slides across the copper switch connections. Mine got used as a template for 3D printing bits for the full-on luxury of intermittent on the wiper switch plus pull to wash-wipe. (see the how to thread , you might need to get one of @snottys kits plus a new wiper motor if it turns out the parking switch is fried, or the motor only goes very slow or slow. )
