As my gears in the motor seem to be causing the motor to overload, I was looking at this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Bus-B...313c01730a4cc349d14b0ffe6febc|iid:1#vi-ilComp Will this fit a 73?
No Spindles are fine. I tried running the motor of the mechanism and it works for a while then must find a touch spot on the gears. Upon inspection the gear looks slightly damaged in one area which I tried to clean up carefully but it obviously didnt do the trick. The self park still isnt working either
Check the brushes on the motor, when very worn the motor may stop repeatedly in the same place. The marks on the gears may be from sitting in the same place. You should be able to find holes for the pins used during assembly to hold the brush springs back when you reassemble it. Mark the body and cap of the motor before disassembly, as if you put it together 180 degrees out, it runs backwards... Self park uses the fast speed brush to move the motor. If that brush is totally worn it wont run fast or park.
I checked the brushes they looked ok apart from one of the springs being mangled and half way out. Thought this might cure it but it still blew another fuse. For now it seems to run ok on both speeds with no mech attached. The self park still doesn’t work.
If you improve the connections you increase the current that flows on overload.. so it should blow fuses more often. Although its a pain, it means the motor wont burn out - you could alternatively connect something like a 60 watt headlamp bulb in series.. when you get the motor spinning off load it will get 12 volts because the light goes off. If the light comes on then you have a heavy load I dont know exactly where to get brushes but basically you can measure the dimension like 3mmx3mm, work out the length and the spring arrangement and go on eBay where there are several vendors selling generic parts. If the motor is blowing fuses then it has too much friction or you are trying to power it off the two brushes that are about 45 degrees apart, rather than using 135 degrees (fast) and 180 degree apart pairs of brushes. I would try to run some 3 in 1 oil into all of the bearings , disconnect the bars going to the spindles and see if it runs better. Its still most likely corrosion of the spindles rather than around the motor..
Thanks Mike - most of my testing recently has been off the mechanism which takes that out of the equation . I wonder if the switch could be shorting in some way . It seems to work ok trying switching on and off maybe 20 times running in fast/ slow then blows the fuse - but I think it does this when I switch off so maybe to do with the park function . I have heaps of other things to do but this is bugging me now.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I you think the motor you originally linked to would fit, I'd go for that. You'll spend half that messing with brushes and it still might not work.
If you scroll through the list is does mention The Type 2 . I might just go for it as I also have a T3 so I would have a spare if it doesn’t fit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
How does the fuse blow? If it suddenly expires it might be an intermittent short in the wiring or the auto-home contacts but if it slowly overheats and melts then most likely to be in the motor itself. Another thing, does this happen on both slow and "fast" as there are three brushes, Slow, Fast and Common so you might find clues from which brushes are being used
I am going to start by taking a picture and posting it up as I suspect it has been butchered at some point
The thing with the auto park is.. In the OFF position the stalk is meant to switch 12 volts to the motor in fast mode until a contact in the box of switches driven by the gear opens. Then a fraction later another contact shorts the motor to make it work as a generator and bring itself rapidly to a stop. Mistakes in wiring here would short the 12 volts as the motor passes the fast position when you turn the wipers off.