Wheel Bearing Question

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Owen Snell, Jun 8, 2012.

  1. Changing the rear outer wheel bearing and the one that came out looks a bit different to the new one I've got. The original has a lip round one side of the outer race while the replacement part has a plain outer. Is the replacement correct? The van is a crossover, so there's always a bit of doubt.
     
  2. Are the bearing numbers the same? They tend to be standard parts.
     
  3. I've not got a number for the old one. I was thinking that the new one would be a standard to fit whereas the original might have been a VW special based on another standard.
     
  4. I seem to recall the curvy edge on replacements I bought from JK, only because they were b*ggers to drive into the hub carrier - the curve kept making them slip sideways. Long time ago...can't remember any further details :(
     
  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Yep it's the right one, that's how they are.
    Looks harder to drive out next time than the original style one, but still doable.
     
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  7. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I beg your pardon, misread.
     
  8. I called VWH and got them to check the stock on the shelf and that had no lip either. It will go in fine, just not as easy to locate properly without the lip as a guide.
     
  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It's ringing a vague bell - it's been a while since I had to change one. I think I merely did best to get it in the right place. Could I have pulled it in by assembling everything, then removed and knocked it in a bit further? :thinking: <-That could be a red herring if it doesn't make sense.
     
  10. The inner race is loose, so that can be knocked into position against the spacer ring and then the outer put in to match. It's a roller bearing, so no side load anyway, even with the location lip it would only be held in one direction. Will see how it goes ......
     
  11. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    i have to do this , did you take any pics that may help , can you remember the size of the castle nut ( later version ) 46 mm comes to mind , i don't have one so will have to hire it and a torque wrench that goes to 253lb , any advice will be heeded .

    cheers- Malc
     
  12. i have to do mine and have been looking a renting a torque wrench , and the 46mm socket with bar , but no luck yet
     
  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    46mm
    Torque wrench is no use unless you're a 20st HGV Mechanic. Do the calculation and stand in the appropriate place on the bar.
    eg if you weigh 253lbs and stand 1ft along the bar it would be correct. Or if you weigh 506lb 6" will do it (fatty). Then you will have to further tighten (jump) until you can get the split pin in one of the holes which makes the 253 figure a minimum as I see it.

    I have to take them on and off every time I do some brake work it's easy. You should have come to Techenders. ;)
     
  14. i don`t know if early/crossover and late are different ! well actually early and late are ,but late ones are easy to do ,both inner and outer are pressed in the inner one has a big circlip that stops it getting pushed out. The outer bearing is pressed till the spacer stops it goig any further ... quite simple but you need BIG circlip pliers . i did mine of the van so used a press .....can be messy with the old grease
     
  15. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    I couldn't come to t/es steve my gum has got infected after having 5 teeth out on Thursday.
     
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  17. oh and buy vwh bearings (genuine) not the cheaper gsf ones (vtech)
     
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

     
  19. I couldn't come to T E either as it was visit the grandson weekend in Grantham
     
  20. Is there anything else I should order when getting the bearings
     

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