What would you use for edging on plywood interiors?

I'm just about to start on redoing Wiggie's interior and it's looking like the option which offers the best compromise on cost, weight and convenience for what to build it out of will be plywood, probably without a veneer and just sanded really smooth, and either treated or clear varnished.

I've been reading lots of threads on it on here, and am taking on board what @zed I think it was said when he advised someone plan on only making it once (as it's a lot of work not to do right first time), and to use edging to give it a finished look.

I'm kind of stuck regarding what edging to use, if I'm honest. I'd probably lean towards using metal edging if I could, but the company that is linked to from another thread asking about where to get this in the uk doesn't have it in their brochures any more.

What have you guys used now and in the past, what did you think of it, and how easy is it to remove and redo with a different edging should I decide I hate it?

 

Bloomin good question! Ive tried a few things inluding iron on edging or indeed just leaving it bare. Im going for the latter I think, After all its is what it is and if its good quality stuff i think it looks ok!

 

Could you edge with wood like this
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip041400ws.html
Or clip on edging perhaps
http://www.tpextrusions.com/plastic-pvc-panel-connector-profiles.html

 

Why not try and use a strip of real wood veneer? It will stick properly with wood glue and cover the edge.

For instance at a boat jumble I picked up a bundle of about 30 off 60cm lengths of 30mm wide teak veneer for a fiver..

 

I'm in the process of making my interior. I'm using real wood veneered mdf so the edges have to be covered. On the high wearing areas I have used a rubber t trim and the other edges I have used an iron on edging which works great. I found it best to seal the edge with pva glue before you put the laminate. It's time consuming but you get a good finish.

 

Nice! More pics please!!!

 

Here some of the boards with a groove routed in the edge and then just knock the trim in. The trim I used has a 3mm tongue so I used a 2.5mm router bit to ensure a good fit



This photo shows the iron on edging trim. There is a technique to using this stuff, clean and dry. If the wood that the edge is going on is like mdf then it needs to be sealed to ensure a good stick. I used pva glue then lay the edging on with a preheated iron. If you find the edging is scorching, a piece of a4 paper over it as you iron helps to stop this. Once it ironed on, rub your palm over it to stick it down good and proper. Don't worry if little bits here and there do not stick 100% as you can reheat the glue and stick it down again. Depending on whether you are using wood veneer or laminate you use a chisel or metal file respectively to cut it flush. Be careful with the chisel to not dig into the wood you are edging and you use the side of the file to 'saw' it off not the big face. Once it's nearly flush, use a sanding block or a file to finish the edge. You take of just enough that you can see the break in the glue and no more. Important, make sure you push the file/sanding block rather than pull or it will snag the edge and try to rip it off. It's also important is to ensure the cut to the board is dead straight and square as failure to do this will make the edging hard to apply and stay stuck down, this can be done with a sanding block it you do not have access to a good table saw. The finished result will only look as good as the board you start with.

 

Yours looks great @icepug

If I were using veneered wood I'd definitely copy it as it does look right- I've never seen the edging used with plain (albeit varnished) ply before, though, and I'm not sure it will work.

This is the crux of my dilemma really (aside from practicality) - if using veneers I'd use the plastic trim (or iron on veneer) just like you, With real wood I'd leave it plain, but plywood.... I've no idea!

 

If your going to varnish it you can get an iron on edging to match and varnish that. This would save on the ugly end grain dilemma. It would look really good if it is done well. Other wise the rubber trim is quicker, easier and also protects the edge

 

I used glue on wood veneer strip and was able to sand and varnish along with the ply,

 

I routed off my own 1mm thick veneers of oak from appropriate thickness planks to match the plywood, rounded the outer edges and glued them on.

 

I could kiss ya you sexy beast

 

I might have got carried away on the interior, it was good therapy.

 

Calming hmmm. Smell the beans

 

Thinking back, I made a tool with the router that I then fed the raw strips through twice, putting perfect rounded edges on them. I definitely got lost in that job.

 

I was advised by my pal Luke who is the carpenter that did my trim to avoid varnish, and instead use two coats of danish oil followed by two to three coats of liquid wax, which you then just buff up to the sheen you want, more coats more sheen. That way its really easy if you get a mark rust to re oil and wax, rather than chipped/scatched varnish which needs more prepping and time to look right every time you get a small mark. So I did that on the Westie copy interior I've just finished building. I routered a radius edge of the unit corners then used iron on oak edging around the edge, and leaving a 1mm shoulder for the edging in to butt up to on the front face:

 

Nice Gazman, I used oil too.

 

@surfgir1 you could always leave the plywood edge visible That's what I have done which as long as the ply has no voids and the edge is suitably treated gives another more practical option