Can anyone confirm if M10x1K is the same, or different, to the M10x1 on a brake union nut? It screws on but it bites about two threads in? Should I expect it to be an interference fit being tapered? Thanks.
@paradox - being Japanese, I’d put money on it being M10 x 1.0 - used on loads of Jap stuff including motorbikes.
Yes, an M10 x 1.0 brake fitting or hose will screw straight into the oil switch boss in the crankcase. I used to use an old rear brake hose connected to a mechanical gauge for checking oil pressure. If your sender has the correct taper on (and the case threads aren't too munged), it should screw in a certain amount then stop as the taper bites. You should have a few threads showing.
I tried a M10x1 brake union on the new sender, it goes on, but its tight, unscrewing doesn't seem to reveal any damage to either threads. I have a type4 so I need to sort out some sort of flexi-pipe so I can mount the new sender remotely. I'm thinking a brake pipe's braided flexi-hose would be ideal? I really don't want to cut the tinware. If the new sender switch proves too sensitive for the "idiot light" then I just need a M10x1 T-piece plus the hose to mount both the original sender for the light and the gauge together, if the new sender doesn't cause the dash light to start flashing at idle, then its job-jobbed.
Sounds fine. If your engine (bearings, etc) is in good shape, the higher threshold for the pressure switch shouldn't be a problem. I'm assuming the thread in a type 4 is the same arrangement as a type 1.
Why not? A duel sender will screw into a type 4 without using an extension if you open up the hole in the tin slightly.
If you use a hose check it is rated for at least 120 degrees C. I would look at something intended for oil lines rather than brake hose. No, your engine shouldnt get that hot but having that hose responsible for losing oil rapidly might be a bad thing to happen in the middle of an overheating crisis..
I use a electronic sender rated to 120 deg C . .one day it got to over 120 degrees C (left vent covers on) and the sender suffered 'zero drift' and indicated 0psi even when the engine was running at 1000 rpm, but lifted off zero reading about 10 psi low at other speeds. As it was running and stayed running, I decided to sit at fast idle until the engine cooled and magically the oil pressure gauge started indicating 4psi as I expected. I have since put the sender on an extension piece with two outlets (easier on a T1..) and put a stock pressure switch back in. This gives me two independent oil pressure checks and the electronic transducer doesnt get as hot any more.
