Westfalia swivel base

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Lofty, Mar 30, 2013.

  1. Decided to have a look at the chairs today and see why the swivel base on the passenger side would not swivel. Seems a simple enough affair, 4 nylock nuts on 4 studs holding a 2 piece base. Middle parts stays stationary whilst outer part moves around between middle part and wheel tub. So I took it apart, wiped all the crud off it, put some grease on the 'runner' and bolted it up again. Would not budge !
    So I let off the nuts a little and it worked. This seems OK but I do not think it is 100% as the nuts should be tightened up I think. Should there be some washers under the middle plate just to give a little clearance and to allow the base to swivel ? Then the nuts would tighten up without 'pinching' the outer piece. Does this make sense ?
    [​IMG]
     
  2. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    You don't tighten the nuts right down, they act as adjustment for ware too.
     
  3. Thanks David. I guess it is a personal choice then. Loose enough that the missus spins round like she's on a waltzer, or tighter so she has too build up her muscles.
     
    Mrs Moosey likes this.
  4. If I was to have a go at cleaning and painting the swivel base, what would the best approach ?
    Wire wheel on drill, then a primer or some kind of 'cure rust', then a top coat of black ? Any suggestions or just Halfords ? Cheers
     
  5. kenregency

    kenregency Guest

    thats why you have a place on the back of seat for your hand cuffs
     
  6. :)
     
  7. Yup as said don't tighten them fully.
     
  8. paradox I'd be interested on your thoughts about the painting. Your 'bits' always look good when you do something.
     
  9. Let me go and read the thread from the start dude:thumbsup:
     
  10. Ok it was only a short thread lol i thought it was going to be a few pages long lol

    Wire brush on a grinder and one on a drill for the awkward bits
    Red scotchbrite pads for the bits you have to do by hand in the proper little niggly bits and tight spots

    Get it back to bare steel then degrease it with some thinners even white spirit will do fine
    Let the thinners evapourate off if im using white spirit i normally give it a wipe over with an old t shirt afterwards to remove any residue
    Then use a rattle can of upol acid etch it can be bought in halfords
    Once its primed with the etch and has had plenty of time to dry an hour is normally fine even at low temps
    Then use a rattle can of wilkinsons satin black enamel paint
    The first coat you are not trying for full coverage of colur more of just a base coat dusted on
    Give it 5 to ten mins after the first coat to go tack then hit it with a second coat

    Allow it a few days to cure and dry off properly

    Wire wheel for the grinder £10
    Wire wheel for the drill £6
    Can of upol acid etch £8
    Can of wilkinsons satin black enamel £6

    You will have plenty of life left in the wire brushes and plenty of etch and satin black for other jobs

    If you want the type of finish i have on my grey tinware and parts its a lot more involved
     
  11. whs^
     
  12. Or post them to me and ill do them for the cost of the wire brushes and the paint plus a few beer tokens
     
  13. Thanks Para, for both the advice and the offer. If I decide to do it, I reckon I'll give it a go myself as the van was supposed to be my hobby when we agreed to get it.
     
    paradox likes this.
  14. Good on ya dude ill look forward to the pics:thumbsup:
     
  15. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    a bit of sanding and some gloss black will make it look good as new, get a decent paintbrush and always try to paint in the same direction.
     

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