I’m going to be putting together a 1776 engine The bottom end has been machined and built already I have new barrels and pistons. I have a pair of nearly New genuine vw Mexican 043 heads (043 101 375H) I was going to have these fly cut to take the larger barrels. I’d also have to buy new valves. However the valve sizes are 33 inlet and 30 exhaust so it appears to be a fuel injection head. Stock vw valve sizes for a carb engined 1600 tp are 35.5 inlet and 32 exhaust. When the heads were on my 1600 it pulled really well right from tick over so the smaller valve size must have put the torque down low in the Rev range which is great for a bus. I think however with the capacity increase to 1776 the valves are going to be too restrictive. So this would leave me with heads that I would have to have larger valves put in,port work done and flycut to take the larger barrels. I’ve been and looked at new heads with larger valves and already opened up for larger cylinders They all seem to have 40inlet and 35.5 exhaust valves. I can’t help thinking if I bought those I’m going to be swinging from too small valves to too large valves. The engine is using a stock cam,original carb and heat exchangers with a stainless steel version of the original exhaust. Basically a stock engine with increased capacity. What’s people’s thoughts on the 40x35.5 valve sizes?
Doubt this helps much but this is my experience, although the two 1776 engines had more differences than just the heads. Excellent 1776cc engine number 1: Pair stock valve VW twin port cylinder heads, cut for 90.5mm (1776cc) with mild port, Stainless steel valves, heavy duty springs. Not as good 1776cc engine number 2: Cylinder Heads: EMPI 044s which are stronger than stock style heads as they have extra material around the combustion chambers. They also have larger air intake & exhaust ports. Each is fitted with stainless 40mm x 35.5mm valves, heavy duty springs, steel retainers & long reach spark plugs.
He didn’t do anything to the heads apart from strip them down. I appear to have got some random valves and springs back. Thanks for confirming my thoughts on the larger valves.
Can you source some standard vw heads and do the porting and polishing yourself? I ended up giving my old heads to a friend, originally sold them and then refunded them as they had a tiny crack. I've messaged my mate to see if he has ever done anything with them as I'm sure they would be fine, even with the crack. Have you looked at mofoco heads from the usa, they come in a huge range of specs and with three angle already done?
Logically, it went great, you know I've followed you that time. 1585 to 1776 = not a great deal bigger in reality. If you had a good 3 angle job and cleaned up in inlet ports without wallowing them out I reckon it would be fine at a minimum and probably pretty good.
This is a minimum spend build Paul. Para's preferred spend would be £0. Anything must be best value for money and he already has a pair of workable (IMO) heads. I'd try and use them if I was him.
@paradox do you current mexican heads need 'cutting' to fit 90.5mm barrels and pistons? If they don't, why not give them a go and see how they feel. The heads can always be changed at a later date if they feel too restrictive
I remember you being surprised when you followed me from that campsite in Derbyshire. It did pull really well low down for a 1600 and after that when I replaced that monza exhaust with the stainless standard style one it seemed to free it up even more. I was happy with that engine apart from the excessive end float and the struggle on the Yorkshire hills hence wanting the capacity increase. The smaller than stock valve sizes seemed to suit the 1600 but I think it’s going to be a stretch for them with 1776. I’m just not sure I was hoping for an off the shelf solution but it appears what I want isn’t available easy in the uk. I might have to do like Paul suggested and buy some stock heads with standard valve sizes get them fly cut for the larger barrels Then alter the cc of the combustion chambers and give the ports a tickle.
If only it was so simple. They need opening up, unshrouding and adjusting for CR. A lot of work just to try them out which I believe is the point of this thread. This is the wrong forum to ask. @paradox ask in the performance section on Samba and wait for Alstrup to reply. He's one of few who will answer accepting your limitations and give you a very accurate idea of how it would perform. Believe whatever he says, the man is a treasure. Same goes for Modok but he's a bit random in the threads that interest him. Alstrup will reply to save you from the spend, spend, spend brigade who forget now everyone wants to spend another £1k for 2 extra HP.
Cut heads do come up for sale from time to time. Bide your time and you could DIY most of the rest...apart from the valve seat cutting. I paid about £100 at a very pukka engine reconditioners for that service, it's THE most important thing. Power is in the heads...but you know that.
Perhaps keep your eye out for some other heads, before spening money cutting the mexican ones you may not be happy with. 2nd hand ones will come up. Ill let you know if/when my mate replies about my old heads
No worries, I'm interested too. There's so much willing type-1 experience over there it's madness not to use it.
Cheers for asking your mate about the heads I appreciate you trying to help. The thing is once the heads have cracked they only get worse until your spitting spark plugs out or a valve seat becomes loose.
It would be different if you were just slapping a cracked head on as is on a stock motor as a get by, but definitely not worth investing any money in them.
I'd just fit them. 1776 isn't that much difference to a 1600. If you want torque for a van, best to strangle everything so you get faster gas flow. DON'T fit big valves - all your power (such as it is ) will vanish up the top end, which you don't want on a van. 3-angle valve job's worth doing.
